Comparing Rolex Bezels

ROLEX ALUMINUM BEZELS

Rolex began to use aluminum bezel inserts in the 1950s. It replaced the previous material known as Bakelite, which is an acrylic with radium numerals embedded inside. Because of the brittle nature of Bakelite, as well as the radioactivity of radium, Rolex switched to aluminum insert bezels.

Aluminum bezels were less likely to crack than Bakelite. Moreover, the metal offered a great balance of traits – it was tough enough for daily wear, but could be fashioned easily, and also accepted color coatings readily.

Rolex GMT-Master Blue Red Pepsi Bezel ref 16750 and 1675

While they did serve Rolex long and well, they do have a few flaws. First and foremost, aluminum bezels fade, scratch and discolor, particularly when exposed to external factors such as sunlight, friction, saltwater, and sweat. This is actually a trait that is cherished by many vintage watch collectors, but it goes against Rolex’s ethos of creating everlasting timepieces.

Despite their tendency to fade, one advantage of aluminum bezels is that they are relatively easy and inexpensive to replace.

ROLEX CERAMIC BEZELS

In 2005, Rolex released their first ceramic bezel, made from a patented material they called Cerachrom – “cera” for ceramic, and “chrom” for the Greek word for color.

Cerachrom was an improvement from aluminum in every way. The material is virtually scratchproof due to its extreme hardness and practically impervious to fading caused by UV rays, chemicals, and sweat. Moreover, it can be polished to a long-lasting luster. The result is optimum color and shine that will last for decades.

Rolex Submariner Green Bezel Hulk 116610 LV and Kermit 126610LV

One disadvantage of Cerachrom is that it is significantly more expensive to produce, thus driving the cost of watches up. Being a brittle material, it can also shatter when dropped from a considerable height, or chip when knocked against a hard surface, and can be quite expensive to replace when it does.

Cerachrom made its debut on the 2005 Rolex GMT-Master II ref 116718LN, an 18k yellow gold model with a black bezel. Today, the Cerachrom bezel can be found on several Rolex collections including other GMT-Master models, Submariners, Seadwellers, Daytonas, and Yacht-Masters, in both singular and bi-color options.

ROLEX STEEL BEZELS

Rolex Explorer II ref 16570

Stainless steel is very robust and won’t shatter like ceramic, however, it can be susceptible to scratching. Again, scratches and dings are still seen as quite desirable by some fans, as it suggests a life well-lived for their Rolex. Another advantage of steel bezels is that it offers a streamlined look, particularly for all-steel watches.