The Cartier Tank Must: A Revival

The Beginnings of Cartier Tank Must

Almost every watch brand has a story of how they made it through the “Quartz Crisis.” When Japanese companies like Seiko and Citizen began making quartz-powered timepieces, which offered unparalleled accuracy at a fraction of the price, it spelled difficulty for makers of mechanical watches.

Much like other brands, Cartier had to change course. Under a new direction, the Les Must de Cartier line, which is French for “these Cartiers are a must” was born. This collection made the Tank more wallet-friendly and appealing to a wider consumer base. It also marked the first time the brand produced timepieces that are not in 18k gold or platinum.

The earliest Tank Musts came in the classic shape of the Tank Louis, the emblematic Tankdesign. Aside from being made of steel, what sets them apart are their colorful yet minimalist dials. Moreover, the only elements present were just the hands, the “Must de Cartier” print, and an emblem at the bottom with overlapping Cs.

It’s important to note that the Les Must de Cartier line was not just composed of watches – but included lighters and pens – and was instrumental in making Cartier known globally on a more massive scale.

The New Cartier Tank Must

In 2021, Cartier revived the 1980s favorite with quartz-powered, monochromatic, and colorful variations of the classic Tank. These pieces pay direct homage to similar neat and sophisticated Must de Cartier watches from four decades ago.

The Tank Must has zero frills – only the classic Tank Louis silhouette in steel and matching steel hands form its backbone. Dials come in rich lacquered colors popular in the late 1970s and early ’80s: deep red, navy, and emerald green with matching alligator straps.

In 2022, Cartier added a black dial and strap combo to the collection. Therefore, all the colors work just as well during the day as they do at night, giving a bang for your buck in terms of sheer wearability.

The dials became more minimal than ever. The double C icon and the “Must De Cartier” text is now gone. They just have the Cartier logo and hour and minute hands. Adding a stunning pop of color is the blue sapphire cabochon crown, which is a Cartier signature.

Boasting an androgynous appeal, the Tank Must’s sizes are labeled small, large, and extra-large instead of ladies’ or men’s. The 2022 Tank Musts carry the Large distinction, measuring about 33.7 mm x 25.5 mm – a friendly size for many wrists, Inside, they run on high autonomy movements with a battery life of up to 8 years.