The Modern Breitling Chronomat

A 1980s Classic

The Chronomat holds an important place in Breitling’s history. In the early 1980s, thin time-only quartz watches were still the order of the day, but the brand placed its bets on a mechanical watch. Breitling developed a chronograph in 1983 for the Italian Jet Team Frecce Tricolori – one that could easily work with a suit but also function well in a jet cockpit when needed.

The brand was particular with one aspect of the design – the crystal had to be recessed in order to prevent shattering. To do this, four rider tabs were added to the bezel, which protects the glass. Moreover, it marks every quarter of an hour, particularly on 0, 15, 30, and 45 markers.

For its 100th anniversary in 1984, the brand intended to bring the mechanical chronograph back to center stage. With the Frecce Tricolori serving as the foundation of the new timepiece, they introduced the Chronomat – a name that combines “chronograph” and “automatic.”

The four rider tabs on the bezel become the distinguishing elements of the watch, whose success is widespread. Apart from this, it also features a recognizable onion-shaped crown, a sleek profile, and a “Rouleaux” bracelet, which instantly adds a character to any ensemble.

The Chronomat has remained in production since then and is considered one of Breitling’s best-selling pieces to date.

A Modern Spin on the Breitling Chronomat

In 2020, Breitling introduced the new Chronomat collection. It kept the signature design codes and vintage appeal of the original Chronomat and “Frecce Tricolori,” while incorporating modern touches.

True to the 1940 edition, the updated Chronomat has four rider tabs to protect the crystal, but they are more subtle and integrated with the bezel this time. Moreover, wearers can now unscrew the tabs at 3 and 9 and switch their positions anytime they want. This new feature allows one to use the bezel as either a countdown or count-up timer.

Whereas previous versions of the watch had five-piece links, the new Chronomat brings back the Rouleaux bracelet – a visual connection to the “Frecce Tricolori” model. The Rouleaux, which is French for “rollers,” features a tight row of cylinders to make the bracelet, held together by a polished butterfly-style clasp.

Inside, the modern Chronomat watches rely on the Manufacture Caliber 01, which is a self-winding column-wheel movement with an impressive 70-hour power reserve.

Wide Variety