Rolex Submariner Bluesy Evolution

Made popular in the 1980s, two-tone, steel and gold watches have made a comeback in recent years. Modern releases helped shed the retro association of the two-tone timepiece, while vintage pieces have received growing appreciation for their just-right combination of luxe precious metal and robust stainless steel.

One of the most desirable two-tone watches is the Rolex Submariner Bluesy. First introduced in 1984, it has been reincarnated three more times since then, proving its timelessness and versatility. Let’s take a deep dive into the Submariner Bluesy’s evolution:

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Rolex Submariner Bluesy ref. 16803 (1984)

The very first two-tone Rolex Submariner was released in 1984 with the ref. 16803. It not only added the Rolesor finish to the collection, but also a slew of major design upgrades.

This transitional piece, along with the other members of the ref. 1680x family, brought sapphire crystals to the collection to replace the acrylic ones, increased the water resistance rating to 300 meters, and ran on the high-beat Caliber 3035, which brought the Quickset date function to the Submariner line.

Being a Rolesor model, the bezel inserts on the ref. 16803 were made of aluminum, while its bezel ring was made of yellow gold. Meanwhile, its blue dial had a gorgeous metallic sunburst finish and a brushed texture extending out from the center, giving it a dynamic appearance.

Some very early ref. 16803 versions included a “nipple dial,” which is distinguished by raised gold hour markers. These were later replaced by the lume-filled and gold-outlined indices that Rolex still uses today.

Rolex Submariner Bluesy ref. 16613 (1988)

Three years later, in 1988, Rolex released the Submariner Bluesy ref. 16613 to replace the ref. 16803. It remained faithful to its predecessor by having the same two-tone 40mm case and bracelet, and black and blue options for the anodized aluminum bezel.

The automatic Caliber 3135 powering the timepiece is its most notable improvement. This movement offers a full balance bridge, a larger balance wheel, and an increased jewel count, from 27 to 31. By 2000, Rolex had further upgraded the movement with its Parachrom hairspring, which ensures maximum precision and timekeeping stability.

It is also crucial to note that the ref. 16613 was subjected to numerous modifications throughout its 20-year production run. For example, near the end of the 1990s, Luminova succeeded tritium as the main luminescence material, whereas solid end-link bracelets debuted in 2000. The use of lug holes was eventually discontinued a few years later.

Additionally, in the early 2000s, Rolex began carving the watches’ serial numbers and  ‘ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX’ on the rehaut, in addition to laser etching a micro crown on the crystal to fight counterfeiting. Hence, although being the same exact model, a mid-2000s Submariner ref. 16613 will look and feel different from a late 1980s ref. 16613.

Rolex Submariner Blue Dial Ceramic Bezel ref. 116613 (2009)

Rolex unveiled the third version of the two-tone Submariner in 2009, and with it, came a whole host of drastic changes. One of them is the introduction of the “Super Case,” which, despite its similar 40mm sizing, is far more imposing thanks partly to its fatter lugs and larger crown guards.

Adding to the heft of the watch was the updated two-tone bracelet with yellow gold center links and a newly redesigned robust clasp – the Glidelock safety clasp – that can simply be adjusted without the use of tools.

It’s worth mentioning that early versions of the ref. 116613 had what’s now known as the flat blue dial to better match the blue tint of the Cerachrom bezel. This face also featured large luminous indices and hands that are designed to glow evenly for up to 8 hours. However in 2013, Rolex brought back the sunburst blue dial and discontinued the flat one. On a side note: the latter was available with diamond indices, but the former was not.

Under the ref. 116613’s hood is the same Caliber 3135 that powered its predecessor. It promises an accuracy rating of -4/+6 seconds daily, and a power reserve of 48 hours.

Rolex Submariner Blue Dial Bezel 41mm ref. 126613 (2020)

The ref. 126613 is a thoroughly contemporary incarnation of the Submariner Bluesy, released in 2020, together with the new generation line of Rolex Submariners. It marks the first time that the Submariner case measures 41mm since it was introduced in 1954. Compared to the previous edition, the profile is noticeably thinner yet the bracelet is wider. This slight but crucial change indicates a return to the original proportions of the five-digit Submariners.

Other blink-and-you’ll-miss-it changes include a white text on the dial and a Rolex coronet between Swiss Made at 6 o’clock, which Rolex added to watches with new movements in 2018. Moreover, the ref. 126613 has a widened bracelet with a solid center and end links plus a milled clasp. Apart from these, the key design details of the Submariner Bluesy remain the same.

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While each version has been refined to meet tastes and trends, the Rolex Submariner Bluesy always delivers performance with a touch of elegance. Explore our wide selection of Rolex Submariner Bluesy models at SwissWatchExpo.com.