Rolex Diamond Dials, 10 Ways | The Watch Club by SwissWatchExpo

One of the ways that Rolex makes their already iconic designs even more special is with the use of diamonds. All examined and hand-selected by expert gemologists and gem-setters, Rolex diamonds are set in place with meticulous attention to detail, so that they work in harmony with the rest of the timepiece.

Whether you want subtle sparkle or a bold statement, there is a Rolex diamond dial watch for you. Let’s check out ten ways Rolex uses diamonds on its dials:

Rolex Datejust Zebra Pave Diamond Dial 116185 / Datejust Steel Yellow Gold Diamond Dial 16233 / Day-Date Rose Gold Eisenkiesel Stone Diamond 128345

Diamonds with Surrounds

One of the most common ways Rolex uses diamonds is by replacing hour markers with brilliant-cut diamonds, surrounded by gold frames. These take the place of ten hour markers, while the date and Rolex coronet remain at 3 and 12 o’clock. This style flawlessly combines diamonds and gold for an understated yet luxurious timepiece.

Rolex Datejust Steel Yellow Gold Diamond Dial 16233

Diamonds Roman Numeral Markers

Similarly, Rolex also uses diamond encrusted Roman numerals as hour markers. On the Day-Date, these are used for the remaining 10 digits, with the 3 o’clock and 12 o’clock positions designated for the day and date. On the Datejust, diamond-filled VI Roman numerals are used at the 6 o’clock mark, or on both the 6 and 9 o’clock positions.

Rolex President Day-Date White Gold Pink Opal Diamond Dial 128239 / Rolex President Day Date Rose Gold Eisenkiesel Stone Diamond 128345

Rolex President Day-Date White Gold Pink Opal Diamond Dial 128239 /
President Day-Date Rose Gold Eisenkiesel Stone Diamond 128345

Square Diamond Studs

The Rolex Day-Date is already the brand’s most prestigious dress watch, but the addition of diamonds elevates its look. The Day-Date Tridor ref. 18139 is especially distinct with its bronze Jubilee dial studded with ten diamonds. A white gold bezel and lugs are set with the same precious stones.

Rolex Day-Date President Tridor White Rose Yellow Gold Diamond 18139

The absence of diamonds at 12 and 3 o’clock makes way for the day and date windows, which are common traits of the Day-Date family.

Baguette Cut Diamonds

Some Rolex pieces showcase baguette-cut diamonds, which feature significantly larger stones and offer a nice alternative to the familiar round-cut diamonds that are found on most gem-set Rolex watches.

The baguette cut is one of the most popular cuts of gemstones. The word ‘baguette,’ is a French word that refers to a long, thin loaf of French bread, hence the name.

Rolex Daytona Rose Gold Everose Diamond Dial 116515

Rolex typically uses this type of precious stone as hour markers on the dial, or on the bezel, where larger jewels may be more suited. The baguettes are painstakingly aligned with the other elements of the dial or case using the expertise of a gem-setter, then firmly fixed in its gold or platinum setting.

Overall, baguette-cut diamonds are more expensive than round-cut counterparts because of their larger form.

Serti Diamond Dials

“Serti” comes from the French word “sertissage,” which translates to “gem setting”. In the Rolex world, this phrase refers to watches with dials set with valuable gems such as sapphires, rubies, and diamonds. This could include pieces from multiple collections of the brand, such as the Datejust, Day-Date, Pearlmaster, and others.

Rolex Submariner Steel Yellow Gold Diamond
Sapphire Serti Dial Black and Blue Bezel 16613

In Rolex collecting circles, however, a Serti dial usually refers to Submariners with sapphire and diamond dials, GMT-Masters with ruby and diamond dials, and Yacht-Master models, which often pair these gems with mother of pearl dials. All of them are sports models with a luxury twist.

The dials of Submariner Serti watches have three sapphire hour markers at 6, 9, and 12 o’clock and eight diamond hour markers. Rolex did create gem-set dials for ceramic Submariners for a brief period (white gold, yellow gold, and two-tone models), but these only had diamond indices and no sapphires.

Rolex Yachtmaster Midsize 18K Yellow Gold MOP Diamond Dial 68628

The GMT-Master Serti is similar in style to the Submariner Serti. They feature diamond hour markers with ruby indices at 6, 9, and 12 o’clock instead of sapphires.

While the Submariner and GMT-Master Sertis are the most popular, Rolex also equipped several Yacht-Master models with Serti dials. As previously mentioned, these generally have a mother-of-pearl finish, making them more opulent. Interestingly, there are Yacht-Masters with Serti dials that either blend diamond and sapphire indices or have all of the indices set in rubies.

Diamond Pavé Dials

Pavé diamond dials have round-cut diamonds covering the entire dial. The word “pavé”, which translates to “pavement” in French, refers to how the diamonds are arranged. When you examine a timepiece with a diamond-pavéd dial, you’ll see small diamonds set closely together, resulting in a pavement of continuous brilliance.

Rolex Yachtmaster 40mm Rose Gold Diamond Pave Dial Oysterflex 116655

Gem-setters are the artisans who skillfully install each precious stone onto the watch by hand, ensuring perfection to hundredths of a millimeter. Such strict standards, which may be repeated many hundreds of times, ensure that each stone sparkles brilliantly and is properly aligned with those around it. They also guarantee that each Rolex gem-set watch created glows with extraordinary intensity and matches the brand’s degree of quality.

String Diamond Dials

Dating to the 1990s, string diamond Rolex models include minute tracks laced with small, dot diamonds and hour markers set with diamonds, rubies, sapphires, or emeralds. This style is more commonly seen in Day-Date and Datejust President, often in solid yellow gold models. These models can also sometimes have diamonds over the lugs and bezel.

Rolex Datejust Yellow Gold String Diamond Ruby, Emerald, and Sapphire 69178

Combining various gems with already opulent solid gold, this rare diamond configuration was designed to be lavish and extravagant.

Pleaiades Diamond Dial

Found on Day-Date and Datejust President watches from the ’80s to ’90s, the Pleiades dial features princess cut diamonds strewn across the dial. Most commonly found on champagne and silver dial models, there’s also a black version, which offers the greatest contrast between the plate and the clear stones.

Rolex Day-Date President Yellow Gold Pleiades Champagne Diamond Dial 18348 / Rolex Datejust President Yellow Gold Pleiades Silver Diamond Dial 69158

Rolex Day-Date President Yellow Gold Pleiades Champagne Diamond Dial 18348 /
Datejust President Yellow Gold Pleiades Silver Diamond Dial 69158

In Greek mythology, Pleiades were the seven daughters of the Titan Atlas, who turned his daughters into stars to protect them from the hunter Orion. This explains why the Pleiades dial resembles a sky with brilliant stars all over it. All in all, such a watch face design is made in small numbers only and is one of the rarest Rolex dials ever made.

Myriad Diamond Dials

Rolex watches with a myriad diamond dials up the ante on luxury. They feature a gold outer ring with double rows of small round diamonds, topped with raised gold Arabic or Roman numerals. Moreover, they are often paired with a diamond bezel and lugs.

Rolex Datejust White Gold Myriad Diamond Dial 69179 /
Rolex Day-Date Yellow Gold Myriad Diamond Dial 18238 and 18388

Its central dial can come in a variety of colors such as silver, champagne, blue, and bronze, but there is a rarer slate dial version that exudes a more contemporary feel.

Zebra Diamond Dial

Produced in very limited numbers, the Rolex Datejust 36 Zebra Pave Diamond Dial is a wonderful example of Rolex craftsmanship. This ref 116185 surrounds the stunning dial with a white gold baguette diamond bezel.

Rolex Datejust Zebra Pave Diamond Dial Rose Gold Mens Watch 116185

Its black lacquer-finished dial has zebra-like rose gold stripes with pavé diamonds, ten brilliant cut diamonds with surrounds at the hour markers, and a rose gold Rolex coronet at 12. Even the watch’s strap is unique and is made with black and brown Galuchat rubber with a rose gold buckle.

Pairing the highest quality gems with an interplay of magnificent settings, Rolex diamond dials are sure to delight even the most discerning collector. Explore more diamond Rolex watches at SwissWatchExpo.com.