Since its debut in 1953, the Rolex Submariner has epitomized the pinnacle of dive watch engineering, evolving from a tool for underwater explorers to a luxury icon. Renowned for its ability to endure aquatic pressures, the Submariner also stands out for its elegant functionality, resonating with both watch enthusiasts and admirers. Its bold, robust case, functional rotating bezel, and comfortable yet strong bracelet have defined its identity, contributing to its timeless appeal and recognition as a Rolex emblem.
The Submariner’s enduring design, largely unchanged, has made it a collector’s favorite and an investment piece. Its role as one of the earliest dive watches adds historical significance, enhancing its allure. Coupled with Rolex’s reputation for quality, the Submariner’s consistent demand and value retention make it more than just a timepiece — it’s an investment in horological legacy.
Offering precision and lasting value, the Submariner is not merely a watch but a symbol of horological excellence, appealing across generations and maintaining its status as a desirable and valuable asset in the world of luxury watches. In this guide, we hope to simplify the process of choosing the best Rolex Submariner model to suit your needs and preferences.
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A Brief History of the Rolex Submariner
The Rolex Submariner’s journey from its 1953 debut as a functional diver’s tool, to its current reputation as a luxury watch icon epitomizes the fusion of practicality with elegance in horology.
Initially celebrated for its pioneering 100-meter water resistance and innovative features like a rotatable bezel, the Submariner established itself as a vital tool for divers. Over the decades, Rolex enhanced its design and technology, such as introducing crown guards in the 1960s and transitioning to sapphire crystals in the 1970s, further establishing its sports watch credo.
In the 1970s, the Rolex introduced the use of gold in Rolex Submariner models, broadening its appeal beyond the diving world into the luxury segment.
The design evolution of the Submariner also mirrored this shift. Starting with a focus on functionality, it gradually adopted elements of luxury, like the use of sophisticated color schemes. This transition to a luxury symbol did not dilute its core diving features but enhanced its prestige.
Today, the Submariner stands as a testament to Rolex’s excellence, balancing heritage and innovation. It remains a functional, robust dive watch while appealing to a wide range of enthusiasts and collectors. This remarkable transformation underscores its enduring appeal and status as a timeless piece in luxury watchmaking, embodying both adventure and elegance.
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Key Features of the Rolex Submariner
The Rolex Submariner, a paragon of precision and durability, has evolved through various design and functional updates. Each iteration brings its own unique characteristics, catering to the diverse preferences of watch enthusiasts.
If you’re in the market for a Rolex Submariner, here are some key features to consider:
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Rolex Submariner Date vs No Date
The Submariner has been produced in two main variations: the Date and No Date models. The Date model, introduced in the late 1960s, features an automatically changing date function shown at 3 o’clock and a Cyclops lens on the crystal over the date window for magnification. This addition offers practicality for those who value the convenience of a date display.
In contrast, the No Date model, true to the original design of the Rolex Submariner, only does not have a date window at 3 o’clock, offering a cleaner and more symmetrical dial. This simplicity appeals to purists who appreciate the classic, unadorned aesthetic. The choice between the two models often comes down to personal preference regarding functionality and design.
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Rolex Submariner Old Case vs Maxi Case
The transition from the Old Case to the Maxi Case is a significant chapter in the Submariner’s design evolution. The Old Case, featured in models until the mid-2000s, was characterized by its slimmer profile and smaller lugs.
In contrast, the Maxi Case, introduced in the late 2000s, marked a shift towards a bolder and more robust design. It featured larger lugs and crown guards, as well as a wider bezel, giving the watch a more substantial and modern presence on the wrist. While the Maxi Case models cater to current trends of larger watches, the Old Case models are sought after for their vintage appeal and classic proportions.
In 2020, with the new generation Rolex Submariners, the Maxi Case was phased out in favor of a more streamlined case, one that combines the slim profile of the old case with the robustness of the Maxi Case.
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Rolex Submariner Bi-directional Bezel vs Unidirectional Bezel
Originally, the Submariner featured a bi-directional rotating bezel, allowing divers to measure time intervals in either direction. However, this design posed a risk of accidental overestimation of remaining dive time.
In 1983, Rolex introduced the unidirectional bezel, which only rotates counterclockwise, reducing the risk of accidental movement in the wrong direction. This safety feature ensures that any unintended bezel movement shortens the dive time, preventing divers from overstaying underwater. The unidirectional bezel has become a standard in dive watches, appreciated for its enhanced safety. Vintage models with bi-directional bezels, however, remain highly valued for their rarity and historical significance.<>
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Rolex Submariner Aluminium Bezel Insert vs Ceramic Bezel Insert
The material of the Submariner’s bezel insert has undergone a significant transition from aluminum to ceramic. Aluminum inserts, used in earlier models, were favored for their lightweight and bright colors. However, they were susceptible to scratching and fading.
Addressing these issues, Rolex introduced the ceramic, or Cerachrom, inserts in the 2005. These ceramic bezel inserts are virtually scratch-proof and resistant to ultraviolet light, ensuring long-lasting color and durability. The switch to ceramic also brought a change in aesthetics, offering a more lustrous and high-end look.
While the ceramic inserts represent Rolex’s commitment to innovation and durability, the aluminum inserts are cherished for their vintage charm and historical place in the Submariner’s legacy.
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Which Rolex Submariner Should You Get?
With 70 years of history, the Rolex Submariner collection offers a wide range of models to choose from. Whether you’re looking for a daily beater, a model you can use for special occasions, or a collectible vintage watch, there’s a Rolex Submariner to suit one’s taste. Let’s go over some of the most popular models:
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Modern Rolex Submariner Models
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Rolex Submariner 16610
The Rolex Submariner 16610, introduced in 1988 and produced until 2010, is a significant model in the Submariner series, blending classic aesthetics with modern innovations. Notably, it was among the first to feature 904L stainless steel, known for its superior corrosion resistance, particularly against saltwater, marking Rolex’s dedication to durability.
This model was also one of the first to use a sapphire crystal, replacing the previous acrylic versions, enhancing scratch resistance and refining its look. Equipped with a unidirectional rotating bezel for diver safety and powered by the precise Calibre 3135 movement, the 16610 is esteemed among collectors for its fusion of traditional Submariner elements with these advancements, cementing its status for both historical importance and functional longevity.
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Rolex Submariner “Kermit” 16610LV
Introduced in 2003 to mark the Submariner’s 50th anniversary, the Rolex Submariner “Kermit” 16610LV is renowned for its unique design and historical value. Distinct with its green bezel — then a first for Rolex – this feature starkly contrasts with its classic black dial, earning its nickname from the famous green Muppet. Produced until 2010, the “Kermit” retains the 16610’s robust 904L stainless steel build and durable sapphire crystal.
It stands out as the first Submariner with the ‘Maxi’ dial, marked by larger hour markers and broader hands, enhancing readability and lending a modern touch to its traditional design. The “Kermit” 16610LV, with its distinctive green bezel and modernized features, is highly sought after among collectors for its aesthetic uniqueness and its significance in the evolution of the Submariner series.
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Rolex Submariner “Bluesy” 16613
The Rolex Submariner “Bluesy” 16613, introduced in the late 1980s and a part of Rolex’s catalog for over two decades, represents a luxurious turn in the traditionally utilitarian Submariner line. Its defining feature is the unique combination of stainless steel with 18k yellow gold, embodying a more lavish aesthetic.
The watch is further distinguished by its striking blue dial and bezel, offering a vivid contrast and adding elegance to its design. While it retains the core Submariner attributes of water resistance and robustness, the “Bluesy” is particularly noted for its aesthetic appeal. This blend of functionality with a refined touch makes it a sought-after piece among collectors who value both the Submariner’s diving heritage and a touch of luxury.
The original “Bluesy” ref 16613 comes with an aluminum bezel insert, but this colorway has since been done with the Cerachrom bezel, as seen in the ref 116613 LB and 126613 LB.
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Rolex Submariner 116610
Introduced in 2010, the Rolex Submariner 116610 represents a modern update in the iconic Submariner series, blending traditional elements with contemporary advancements. This model is renowned for its ‘Maxi’ case design, featuring a larger case, broader lugs, and a pronounced crown guard, giving it a more robust and commanding presence.
A significant innovation is the Cerachrom bezel, Rolex’s scratch-resistant ceramic material, enhancing durability and aesthetics. The dial includes larger Chromalight-infused hour markers and hands, offering superior legibility. Powered by the precise Caliber 3135 movement, the 116610 maintains the Submariner’s legendary diving capabilities while appealing to those who appreciate a modern interpretation of a classic design, making it a sought-after model among collectors and enthusiasts alike.
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Rolex Submariner Hulk 116610LV
The Rolex Submariner “Hulk” 116610LV, introduced in 2010, quickly captured the attention of watch enthusiasts and collectors, earning its nickname from its bold, all-green color scheme reminiscent of the comic book superhero. This model stands out with its vibrant green Cerachrom bezel and matching sunburst green dial, a striking departure from the more traditional colorways of previous Submariner models.
The “Hulk” also features the ‘Maxi’ case design, characterized by its larger case, wider lugs, and more substantial crown guard, giving it a robust and modern look. Inside, it houses the reliable Caliber 3135 movement, known for its precision and durability. The combination of its unique aesthetic, coupled with the classic Submariner functionality, makes the “Hulk” a highly desirable piece, celebrated for both its bold design and its place in the evolution of the Submariner line.
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Rolex Submariner 14060 and 114060
The Rolex Submariner 14060 and 114060, often referred to as the “No Date”, was introduced in 1990 and 2012 respectively, as contemporary renditions of the classic Submariner design. Esteemed for their clean and balanced aesthetics, the ref 14060 and 114060 omits the date function, a homage to the original Submariner’s uncluttered appearance.
The ref 14060 replaced the legendary 5513 as the “No Date” edition of the Submariner, upgrading its water resistance to 300 meters, and ushering in the modern five-digit reference era.
Meanwhile, the ref 114060 features the ‘Maxi’ case design, presenting a more pronounced and robust presence with larger lugs and crown guards.
Another notable enhancement in the 114060 is the Cerachrom bezel, a ceramic material highly resistant to scratches and fading, maintaining the watch’s aesthetic integrity over time. Powered by Rolex’s Calibre 3130, a self-winding mechanical movement known for its precision and robustness, the 114060 appeals to collectors who value the simplicity and elegance of the original Submariner ethos, combined with modern technological advancements.
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Rolex Submariner 126610
The Rolex Submariner 126610, unveiled in 2020, is a testament to the continuous evolution of the Submariner line. This model enhances the classic design with subtle yet significant updates, appealing to a modern audience while respecting the Submariner’s heritage. The 126610 features a slightly larger 41mm case, compared to the 40mm of its predecessors, offering a more contemporary and bolder profile.
It also introduces a redesigned bracelet with a broader center link and a more tapered fit, enhancing both comfort and aesthetics. Equipped with the new Caliber 3235 movement, the 126610 offers improved precision, power reserve, and resistance to shocks and magnetic fields. The incorporation of these advancements, combined with the Submariner’s iconic design elements, like the Cerachrom bezel and Oystersteel construction, makes the 126610 a sought-after model among collectors, symbolizing the fusion of Rolex’s storied past with modern horological innovation.
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Vintage Rolex Submariner Models
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Rolex Submariner “James Bond” 6538
The Rolex Submariner “James Bond” 6538, produced from the late 1950s to the early 1960s, holds a legendary status, partly due to its association with the iconic James Bond character. This model is known for its oversized crown and lack of crown guards, features that set it apart from later Submariner models.
The 6538 was one of the first to showcase water resistance up to 200 meters, a significant advancement at the time. Its straightforward, no-date dial embodies the essence of classic dive watches. The combination of its cinematic legacy and these distinctive features make the “James Bond” 6538 highly coveted among collectors, revered for its historical importance and rare, vintage appeal.
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Rolex Submariner 5513
The Rolex Submariner 5513, produced from 1962 to 1989, stands as an iconic model in the Submariner series, renowned for its longevity and classic design. This model is distinguished by its no-date dial, offering a clean and balanced aesthetic that harks back to the original concept of the Submariner.
The 5513 featured a durable acrylic crystal and was one of the first to incorporate a 200-meter water resistance rating. Its enduring appeal lies in its simplicity and the introduction of the Calibre 1520 movement, known for its reliability. The 5513 is celebrated among collectors for its vintage charm, embodying the essence of a classic dive watch.
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Rolex Submariner “Red” 1680
The Rolex Submariner “Red” 1680, produced from the late 1960s to the 1970s, is a notable model in the Submariner series, cherished for its distinctive aesthetic and historical significance. This model earned its moniker from the red “SUBMARINER” text on the dial, a unique feature that distinguishes it from later models with all-white text.
The 1680 was a milestone for Rolex, as it introduced the date function to the Submariner line, along with a magnifying Cyclops lens on the crystal. These features, combined with its classic dive watch design, make the “Red” 1680 highly sought after by collectors, valued for its rarity and its pivotal role in the evolution of the Submariner series.
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Why Should I Buy a Rolex Submariner?
The Rolex Submariner is one of the world’s most recognized watch designs and is considered a staple of any watch collection. Its appeal lies in a blend of historical significance, value retention, quality craftsmanship, and versatility, making it a timeless investment. Here are a few reasons why buying a Rolex Submariner can be a rewarding experience:
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Historical Significance: The Submariner, since its inception in 1953, has not only set benchmarks in diving watch standards but also in horological innovation. Its rich history is interwoven with stories of sea exploration and cinematic fame, enhancing its stature and desirability. This storied past, coupled with its consistent presence in the Rolex catalog, has cemented its position as an iconic and highly respected timepiece.
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Value Retention: The Submariner is known for its ability to hold, and often increase, its value over time. Certain models, especially vintage or cult favorite editions, have seen their prices appreciate over time in the secondary market. This is attributed to the Submariner’s iconic status, longevity, and Rolex’s unwavering commitment to quality. That said, there is no guarantee that a watch’s value will appreciate. It is always recommended to buy a watch with the intent of enjoying it, whether for a season, or for many years.
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Quality and Craftsmanship: Rolex’s dedication to excellence is evident in the Submariner’s craftsmanship. Each piece is meticulously assembled using high-quality materials, ensuring durability and precision. The brand’s commitment to rigorous testing guarantees that each Submariner watch operates flawlessly, maintaining accuracy even in the most challenging environments.
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Limited Supply and High Demand: The Submariner’s allure is partly due to its limited availability. Rolex’s controlled production and the high demand for this model often lead to waiting lists at authorized dealers and premium pricing. This scarcity not only makes the Submariner more desirable but also contributes to its investment potential, as limited availability can possibly drive up resale values.
Note that prices for the Rolex Submariner, as with all other luxury watches, depend on market supply and demand, and the model, history, origin, and condition of the watch itself.
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Versatility: Beyond its functional prowess, the Submariner is celebrated for its versatile design. Its sleek, understated aesthetic makes it suitable for various occasions, from outdoor adventures to formal gatherings. This adaptability ensures that the Submariner remains a relevant and stylish choice across generations, never appearing outdated.
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Final Thoughts
The Rolex Submariner stands as a quintessential investment for both seasoned collectors and new enthusiasts. Its blend of historical prestige, enduring value, superior craftsmanship, rarity, and timeless design makes it more than just a timepiece; it’s a symbol of enduring quality and a wise investment in the world of luxury watches.
The Submariner’s ability to retain and often increase its value over time, coupled with its versatility across various settings, cements its status as a worthwhile addition to any collection.
For those considering the acquisition of a Rolex Submariner, SwissWatchExpo stands as a reliable source and preferred destination for authentic, pre-owned luxury watches.
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