In the world of Rolex collecting, there is a distinct line between “modern” and “soulful.” While the current ceramic Root Beer (ref. 126711CHNR) is a technical marvel, a growing segment of the watch community is looking backward.
The focus? The Rolex GMT-Master II 16713.
Produced from the late 1980s through the mid-2000s, the 16713 isn’t just a placeholder in the GMT timeline; it’s a masterclass in neo-vintage charm that modern manufacturing simply cannot replicate. Here is why this specific reference is dominating the conversation right now.
1. The Aluminum Glow: A Patina You Can’t Program
The primary reason the Rolex GMT-Master II 16713 is landing on the wrists of seasoned collectors is the aluminum bezel insert.
Unlike the modern Cerachrom bezels which are designed to look identical for a century, the aluminum inserts on the 16713 “age” with the wearer. The rich brown and gold tones can fade into “Ghost” shades or take on a tropical hue. In a world of mass-produced perfection, the individual character of a 16713 bezel offers a sense of rarity that a brand-new watch lacks.
For a complete look at how this aesthetic evolved from the original 1970s models to today, see our guide on the Rolex Root Beer GMT-Master Evolution.
2. The “Nipple Dial” vs. The Serti Masterpiece
The 16713 had a long production run, which created a playground for collectors of fine details.
The “Nipple” Dial: Early versions (transferred from the 16753) feature raised gold hour markers—a favorite for those who want maximum 80s “glam.”
The “Serti” Dial: For those seeking the pinnacle of luxury, the 16713 was offered with diamond and ruby markers, beautifully showcased against a slate grey or champagne dial. This specific look has seen a massive resurgence in 2026 as “maximalist” style returns to the mainstream.
SwissWatchExpo’s Jason covers the rare nuances of the 16713, from the ‘shimmer’ of the two-tone Jubilee to the collectible Serti dial.
Explore Serti & Nipple Dial GMTs
3. The “Sweet Spot” Case Dimensions
If you find modern Rolex “Super Cases” a bit too bulky for a suit sleeve, the 16713 is your solution. At 40mm with slimmer lugs and a more refined profile, it wears remarkably light.
It represents the “5-Digit” Era peak: you get the reliability of the Caliber 3185 (with its independent hour hand) but the elegant silhouette of a vintage timepiece.
Expert Tip: When hunting for a 16713, pay close attention to the bracelet. While the Oyster is classic, pairing the Root Beer aesthetic with a Two-Tone Jubilee creates a “jewelry” effect that perfectly complements the warmth of the brown dial.
4. Investment Value: The “Middle Child” Advantage
Historically, the all-steel 16710 “Pepsi” or “Coke” commanded the highest premiums. This has left the two-tone 16713 in a unique position. It is often more accessible than its all-steel siblings, despite having actual 18k yellow gold content.
As collectors realize that “Two-Tone is back,” the value gap is closing. Acquiring a 16713 today isn’t just a style choice; it’s a strategic entry into a reference that is finally getting its flowers.
Final Thoughts: Should You Go Root Beer?
The Rolex 16713 is for the collector who wants a watch that tells a story. It’s for the person who prefers the warmth of yellow gold over the coolness of rose gold, and who values a watch that will look different—and maybe even better—twenty years from now.
At SwissWatchExpo, we’ve seen a significant uptick in interest for these 5-digit icons. Explore our current selection of the Rolex GMT-Master II 16713 and find the patina that speaks to you.
