Rolex and Cartier. Everyone recognizes these names and respects them for their art and prestige when it comes to watches. Unsurprisingly, when searching for the perfect watch, many people turn to these legendary brands for high-end pieces that match function with timeless style.
What sets each brand apart? When comparing two well-known companies for watches, what are their strong suits, and their weaknesses? Read on to understand both brands and determine which is the best choice for your needs and tastes.
<>
A Brief History of Rolex
Hans Wilsdorf (photo: Rolex.org)
Rolex could claim to be the most famous watch brand globally today. What started as a dream in 1903 became a business in 1905 when Hans Wilsdorf founded his London business intent of distributing watches.
Within five years the business would rise to fame and fortune due to brilliant business plans and dedication to flawless functioning. Wilsdorf sourced all his Rolex watches from Switzerland (Maison Aegler in Bienne to be precise) and insisted on quality and flawless functionality, earning his company Chronometric Certification in 1910.
Upon his death in 1960, the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation continued his mission by donating earnings to watch research and an applied arts college.
><
A Brief History of Cartier
Louis-Francois Cartier (photo: Cartier)
Cartier, as we know it today, started in Paris in 1847 when Louis-Francois Cartier took over his master’s factory. For ten years, Cartier flourished through the revolution, and Alfred, his son, took control in 1874. Alfred had a mind for business and quickly grew the company.
By introducing Cartier to the royal families of Europe (and beyond), Alfred saw great success via kings like Edward VII and by 1899, Cartier was able to open a shop on the Rue de La Paix district of Paris.
Alfred won over the aristocracy and his children Louis, Pierre, and Jacques won over the world. The brand succeeded for over 150 years and remained a family-owned business until 1964. Cartier is now a subsidiary of the Swiss Richemont Group.
<>
When should I choose Rolex vs Cartier?
PROS
Brand Recognition. When you think of luxury watches, Rolex is the most recognized brand worldwide.
Certified Chronometers. Their watches undergo rigorous testing to provide you with the best accuracy you can buy.
Resale Value. Not only do Rolex watches have excellent value on the resale market, but they also have a higher-than-average value compared to any other watch brand on the market.
Vast Selection. Rolex is always developing new styles and therefore has many watches under production at one time. Moreover, Rolex has a wide range of watches available in the secondary market, from vintage models, to discontinued styles from years back.
<>
CONS
If you’re looking for a case shape other than round, Rolex may not have a lot of options for you. They are most famous for their waterproof Oyster case, but at one point made a rectangular watch – the Rolex Cellini Prince; and experimented on various shapes with their Cellini range.
Rolex watches have a higher entry-level price point than most other brands, which makes them more exclusive but harder to attain for some.
If you prefer a Quartz movement watch, Rolex has a very limited selection. There has only been one quartz powered Rolex model, and that is the Rolex Oysterquartz, which was discontinued in the 2000s. Rolex now uses automatic self-winding movements, although some vintage models have mechanical winding movements.
<>
When should I choose Cartier vs Rolex?
PROS
Variety of Shapes. When it comes to shape, there are many more options than the average round case. Cartier is a master at playing with shapes. Their rectangular Tank and square Santos has seen many iterations, not to mention other distinctly-shaped models like the tonneau-shaped Tortue and the cushion-shaped Drive.
Entry-Level Price. When you’re considering Cartier vs Rolex, Cartier watches are significantly more affordable for a luxury brand. Cartier has some styles available for under $3,500 while the cheapest Rolexes are listed at $6,100 (retail prices as of 2023).
Quartz Movements. Cartier produces many quartz watches alongside their mechanical designs without sacrificing anything in style and function.
<>
CONS
Cartier is also recognized globally as a jeweler, and has a wider range of products over Rolex. With the wide variety of styles and shapes compared to that of Rolexes, Cartier watches are more difficult to recognize easily.
Cartier watches do not hold their value as well as Rolex does, however their resale value is still competitive vs other high-end watch brands.
While Cartier produces their models in various metals, and uses embellishments like diamonds and types of gold, they don’t have nearly as many models available as Rolex.
<>
Rolex vs Cartier: The Details
PRICING
Comparing Rolex vs Cartier pricing will vary greatly depending on the type of model and features you are looking for. Both manufacturers offer a great deal of variety when it comes to price points. However, in general, Rolex watches tend to have higher starting prices due to demand and exclusivity.
Cartier’s men’s entry-level watches, such as the Cartier Tank Solo and the Cartier Santos-Dumont, retail for $3,500 and $4,200 respectively as of 2023. Meanwhile, Rolex’s entry-level watches, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual 36 and Rolex Datejust 36, start at $6,100 and $7,450 respectively. These are retail prices for steel models as of 2023, and are subject to change.
Ultimately, when comparing Rolex vs Cartier pricing, it is important to narrow down your choices when it comes to materials, sizing, and functions, so you can get a more accurate understanding of their respective prices within the desired watch category and market segment.
<>
STYLE
Both Rolex and Cartier offer a wide range of styles that suit different occasions. However, each company has a distinctive style, design philosophies, and innovations that have made them known in the industry.
Cartier’s history as a jeweler has influenced its design language with watches, therefore most of their timepieces are elegant and sophisticated in nature. Louis Cartier, their third generation owner, and designer of many of their iconic designs, also experimented with non-traditional case shapes. While they also offer round watches, the house of Cartier is known as the master of shapes, with various iterations of rectangular, square, tonneau, and even oddly-shaped watches. At a time when round watches were the norm, Louis Cartier designed the iconic Tank and pioneering Santos, challenging traditional watch shapes.
On the other hand, Rolex is best known for their sporty and robust designs. In 1926, Rolex invented the Oyster case, the first waterproof case in the world; and developed succeeding models made for various pursuits. There’s the Submariner for diving, the Explorer for cave exploration, and the Daytona for racing. As such, many of their watches are bold and masculine in design and are recognized for their durability and technical precision.
<>
QUALITY
The quality of Rolex and Cartier watches are highly regarded in the watchmaking industry, although they have different approaches when it comes to materials and movements.
Apart from making timeless designs, Rolex is known for robust build and exceptional mechanical precision and reliability. The Crown is renowned for their in-house manufacturing and rigorous testing processes. For example, many of the materials they use are developed and made in their own factories and foundries, instead of sourced from third party suppliers. These include the metal alloys (Oystersteel, Gold, and Platinum) as well as parts of their watches that have been patented (such as the Cerachrom bezel, Oysterflex strap, and Parachrom hairspring).
Having been made for various professions and pursuits, Rolex watches are built to withstand extreme conditions, such as diving, aviation, racing, and exploration. Rolex continuously innovates and owns their entire manufacturing process, and as such their materials are built for longevity and value retention.
Meanwhile, Cartier’s focus is on craftsmanship, refinement, and luxury appeal. Their history as a jeweler influences the overall design aesthetic of their watches. They often draw inspiration from their own iconic jewelry designs and motifs, most famously the Panther, incorporating the design idea into their cases, bracelets, and dials while remaining innovative. Their fusion of jewelry and horology results in distinctive watch designs that exude elegance and luxury.
Furthermore, Cartier’s French history also influences their approach to craftsmanship. French cultural icons and landmarks, such as the Renault Tanks, have been used an inspiration for their designs, adding a sense of heritage to their timepieces. The brand has also mastered elements such as intricate detailing, decorative motifs, and ornate artistry, which are ingrained in the French tradition of fine craftsmanship.
<>
RESALE VALUE
When it comes to pricing, Rolex wins when you consider their resale value. Rolex’s high brand recognition and demand in the market contribute to their higher resale value versus Cartier and most other watch brands.
Additionally, Rolex watches are known for their long-lasting materials and durability, further enhancing their value and appeal in the pre-owned market.
While Cartier is also a prestigious luxury watch brand, their resale value is lower compared to Rolex. This may be attributed to their larger product line-up, which includes jewelry.
That said, a watch’s resale value will all boil down to its specific model, current market demand, as well as the condition of the actual watch.
<>
Most Popular Rolex Watches
If Rolex watches have won you over and you’re now looking at the market, there are a few models that stand out over the rest of them.
TOOL WATCHES TURNED LUXURY WATCHES
Daytona
The Rolex Daytona is the Crown’s signature chronograph and racing watch, introduced in 1963. The collection was named after the Daytona International Speedway, which was home to the most prestigious races of the era, and of which Rolex was the official timekeeper.
The design of the Daytona is iconic, with a sleek and sporty aesthetic that appeals to both watch collectors and racing enthusiasts. It features a chronograph function and a tachymetric bezel which work in tandem so users can measure elapsed time with precision.
Having evolved from a racing watch to a luxury chronograph, today’s Rolex Daytona range offers a wide selection of materials to choose from. Cases come in Oystersteel, steel and gold, solid gold, and platinum. Rolex also embellishes the Daytona with diamonds and unique dial materials such as meteorite and mother of pearl, further enhancing its status as a luxury timepiece.
<>
GMT – Master
The Rolex GMT-Master is the Crown’s signature pilot’s watch. Launched in 1954, it was initially designed in collaboration with Pan American Airways, to help pilots track two timezones simultaneously.
GMT-Master models feature a distinct rotating and bi-colored 24-hour bezel, which allows users to read the time in a different time zone, while also showing the local time using the regular hour hand. This feature makes it particularly useful for pilots, travelers, and individuals working in different time zones.
The GMT-Master II was introduced in 1983, as. an evolution of the GMT-Master range. It is equipped with a movement with a quickset hour hand. This independently adjustable central hour hand means that local time can be set without affecting the second, minute or 24-hour GMT hand.
The Rolex GMT-Master and GMT-Master II range offer a wide array of bezel colors, which have been popularized with pop culture-inspired nicknames such as Pepsi, Root Beer, Coke, Batman, and Sprite.
<>
Submariner
The Rolex Submariner is a luxury dive watch created by Rolex in 1953. It features a striking yet timeless design, and its functionality makes it the gold standard of dive watches. Its hallmark features – the rotating bezel, luminescent display, and large hour and minute markers, are considered staples in dive watches today. It was also the first dive watch to be waterproof to a depth of 100 meters.
The Submariner has adorned the wrists of professionals and enthusiasts alike, and it is associated with famous names in history and pop culture. Jacques Cousteau, James Bond, Sean Connery, Steve McQueen, and the British Royal Navy among others, wear the Rolex Submariner.
The Submariner is available in a wide assortment of metals (Oystersteel, steel and gold, and solid gold) and colors (black, blue, and green). With its ruggedly handsome aesthetic, it is considered by many to be the luxury watch to own.
<>
DRESS WATCHES
Datejust
The Rolex Datejust is one of the most iconic watches in history. It was first introduced in 1945, and its groundbreaking automatic date-changing feature quickly became the standard for all modern timepieces. It also came with a magnifying Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock, which helped set the standard for watches with date complications.
The Datejust has been gracing discerning individuals’ wrists ever since, from world leaders like Dwight Eisenhower and Ronald Reagan, to sport and entertainment personalities like Roger Federer.
The Datejust’s simple yet elegant design makes it perfect for any occasion, and it remains Rolex’s best-selling watch even after decades of production.
<>
Day-Date
The Rolex Day-Date is a signature status watch. Introduced in 1956, it is the world’s first timepiece to display the date and the day of the week spelled in full, coupled with an elegant design that is crafted only in precious metals and equipped with the special Presidential bracelet. Today, its day aperture is available in 26 different languages.
The Rolex Day-Date earned its moniker as “The President’s Watch” after gracing the wrists of several U.S. presidents, including Johnson, Nixon, Ford, and Reagan. Over the years it has become the choice watch of leaders across the spectrum – from business titans like Warren Buffett to sports legends like Michael Jordan.
<>
Most Popular Cartier Watches
Cartier offers a wide range of refined and timeless designs, but they also have robust and sporty watches for those who lead an active lifestyle.
TIMELESS DESIGNS
Tank
The Cartier Tank watch was designed in 1917 by Louis Cartier and inspired by the Renault FT-17, a French tank used during World War I. The rounded rectangular case recalls the sides of the combat vehicle when viewed from above.
The ambiguity of its shape made it popular with both men and women, who wore it throughout the 20th Century. The classic design has spurred many iterations over time, including elongated and curved versions like the Cintrée and Americaine, and rounder and curvier styles like the Anglaise.
The Cartier Tank watch has endured as a timeless classic, thanks to its perfect balance of masculine and feminine sensibilities and an understated design that transcends all trends.
<>
Ballon Bleu
The Cartier Ballon Bleu is a graceful take on the round watch. It masterfully combines spherical forms with technical craftsmanship and fine jewelry sensibility.
Introduced in 2007, the Ballon Bleu was loved for its unique domed profile and sleek monobloc construction. It also featured a clever integration of the round sapphire cabochon within its crown, hence the name “Ballon Bleu” which is French for “blue ball”.
Available in various sizes and metal configurations, the Ballon Bleu is one of those rare creations that suits both genders, giving off a relaxed and dressy look on men; and a chic, sophisticated look on women.
The brand’s modern elegance has earned it the stamp of approval from many influencers, including Usher, Johnny Depp, and Kate Middleton.
<>
Santos
The Cartier Santos is the first true pilot’s watch. Designed by Louis Cartier in 1904, at the request of famed Brazilian pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont, it met the need for a legible timepiece that can be worn and read during flight.
At a time when men wore pocket watches on chains or ribbons around their necks, its use of a strap on the wrist was revolutionary, and this also makes the Santos one of the very first men’s wristwatches.
Its iconic square-shaped case, exposed screws, and French railway-style dial remain hallmarks of the Santos collection today. With more than 100 years of history to look back on, there are many variants of this model, such as the Santos-Dumont, Santos 100, and Santos de Cartier, however all remain unmistakably part of the Santos family.
MODERN SPORT WATCHES
Calibre
The Calibre de Cartier is a sporty and robust reinterpretation of the classic round watch introduced in 2010. The boldness of its design lies in its signature elements, which are reinterpreted in a modern and masculine manner.
Aside from its bold take on signature Cartier elements, the special feature among Calibre de Cartier watches lies within their interior: without exception, they are equipped with movements produced completely in-house at the Cartier workshop in Switzerland. This paved the way for Cartier to not just establish its identity as a manufacturer of its own movements, but also as a key player in the sports watch genre.
While the range was discontinued in 2018, the Calibre de Cartier, along with its Chronograph, Diver, and Tourbillon editions, continue to be sought after in the pre-owned market.
<>
Rolex vs Cartier – Final Thoughts
Both Rolex and Cartier are excellent luxury brands with their own selling points that appeal to different needs. Rolex offers robust build, mechanical precision, and strong brand recognition that has made it the most popular luxury watch brand for decades. Meanwhile, Cartier’s history as a jeweler has made them a master of working with shapes, while their French heritage has shaped their commitment to creating aesthetically appealing timepieces.
In the end, both Rolex and Cartier will give you an excellent timepiece that you will cherish for years. Whether you want a Rolex or Cartier watch, our watch experts stand ready to help you choose the best one for your needs.
Explore our vast selection of authentic, pre-owned watches from Rolex, Cartier, and the world’s best watch brands at SwissWatchExpo.com.
