Watch Anniversaries in 2023

Rolex Submariner Generations

While watchmaking goes many centuries back, it was the mid-20th century that revolutionized the wristwatch in terms of precision and design.

Advancements in science, flight, sea and land exploration, as well as changing tastes and fashion drove makers of mechanical watches to find solutions. The result was a slew of timepieces that, while especially made for professional and leisure activities, were elegant enough to wear in any situation.

Proof of their timeless design is that we continue to enjoy them today. Here are the important watch anniversaries for 2023:

 

75 Years – Omega Seamaster (1948)

Introduced in 1948, the Omega Seamaster is the brand’s first series of watches, and continues to be its longest-running collection. The first Seamaster was modeled after watches made by Omega for the British Royal Navy during World War II. Advertised as a watch for “town, sea, and country”, they had slim profiles and a sleek design that was meant for everyday wear, but what distinguished the early Seamaster from its contemporaries was its waterproofing system.

Omega Seamaster watches from the 1940s (photo: Omega)
Omega Seamaster watches from the 1940s (photo: Omega)

 

Today, this ethos continues to permeate through the modern collection: that of water-resistant watches that are elegant enough to be worn every day. The collection now consists of a vast selection, from robust tool watches (Planet Ocean 600M), sporty utility watches (Seamaster 300M), nautical elegance (Aqua Terra) and vintage flair (Seamaster 1948).

When the Seamaster turned 70 in 2018, Omega presented us with a pair of limited edition models inspired by the original Seamaster from 1948. No word has been released yet on 75th anniversary editions, but we wouldn’t be surprised if they also pay tribute to the Seamaster’s origins.

 

Generations of the Omega Seamaster 300M Watch
Generations of the Omega Seamaster 300M Watch

 


 

70 Years – Blancpain Fifty Fathoms (1953)

Introduced in 1953, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms is widely considered as the first modern diving wristwatch.

 

The original Blancpain Fifty Fathoms from 1953 (photo: Blancpain)
The original Blancpain Fifty Fathoms from 1953 (photo: Blancpain)

 

Blancpain played a pivotal role in the development of the dive watch, and consequently the early years of underwater exploration, by introducing technology that we continue to use today – the unidirectional bezel, which is used to monitor the amount of time spent underwater; as well as the use of gaskets inside the caseback and grooves on the crown to make the timepiece water resistant.

 

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic Steel Black Dial Mens Watch 5015
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic Steel Black Dial Mens Watch 5015

 

The design of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms set the standard not just for the modern dive watch’s functions, but its design language as a whole.

In celebration of the Fifty Fathom’s 70th anniversary, Blancpain planned a series of three models, to be released across three markets: the Americas; Europe, Middle East, and Africa; and Asia-Pacific.

 

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Watches Act 1 and Act 2 (photos: Blancpain)
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 70th Anniversary Watches Act 1 and Act 2 (photos: Blancpain)

 

The first series, Act 1, is a stainless steel model in a new 42mm size, which resembles the original from 1953. Act 2 is a 47mm Grade 23 titanium watch, which can time dives up to three hours, compared to the standard 60 minutes. Dive watch aficionados are on the lookout for the next installment of the anniversary series.

 


 

70 Years – Rolex Submariner (1953)

While the Rolex Submariner cannot claim to be the first modern dive watch, it is today considered the gold standard when it comes to dive watches — often imitated, but never matched. Introduced in 1953, it has achieved cult status due to its combination of easy functionality, high performance, and striking yet timeless design.

 

The inaugural Rolex Submariner ref 6204 (photo: Christie's)
The inaugural Rolex Submariner ref 6204 (photo: Christie’s)

 

A main reason for its enduring popularity is how Rolex has consistently upgraded the Submariner while staying true to its original design. Even with the addition of modern bells and whistles like the Cerachrom bezel and solid bracelet links, one can easily spot a Submariner from afar.

 

Generations of the Rolex Submariner in Steel: ref 1680, 16610, and 116610
Generations of the Rolex Submariner in Steel: ref 1680, 16610, and 116610

 

The Submariner also led the dive watch’s ascent from tool watch to luxury timepiece as they added precious metal versions in the 1970s. Today, the Submariner is enjoyed by almost anyone, from professional divers to celebrities and casual collectors.

 

Rolex Submariner Kermit Green Bezel Steel Mens Watch 16610LV
Rolex Submariner Kermit Green Bezel Steel Mens Watch 16610LV

 

We saw a 50th anniversary edition in 2003, the famous green-bezel Rolex Kermit; while the last new release was made in 2020 when Rolex introduced the 41mm Submariner. There is no word of an anniversary edition for release this year, even as Rolex presented in the recent Watches and Wonders fair. For now, us Rolex fans can sit back and wait.

 


 

70 Years – Rolex Explorer (1953)

The Rolex Explorer, released in 1953, truly lives up to its name. It traces its beginnings to a Rolex watch made for high-altitude Himalayan exploration, and while it was expressly made for adverse environments, its classic, minimalist design also makes it easy to dress up.

 

The inaugural Rolex Explorer ref 6150 (photo: Sotheby's)
The inaugural Rolex Explorer ref 6150 (photo: Sotheby’s)

 

The Rolex Explorer has changed very little since its launch, with all its iterations remaining true to its hallmark features: a robust Oyster case, a high-contrast 3-6-9 dial, a reliable time-only caliber, and comfortable wear thanks to the Oyster bracelet. The most noticeable changes to the original design was the introduction of the 39mm case size in 2010 (later discontinued), and the two-tone steel and gold edition in 2021.

 

Generations of the Rolex Explorer: ref 6610, 214270, 124273 and 114270
Generations of the Rolex Explorer: ref 6610, 214270, 124273 and 114270

 

For its 70th anniversary, the Explorer range is expanded with the arrival of the new 40mm model – the first time that the Explorer appears in this case size. It is crafted in Oystersteel, a stainless steel alloy specific to Rolex.

 

The new Rolex Explorer 40mm (photo: Rolex)
The new Rolex Explorer 40mm (photo: Rolex)

 


 

60 Years – Rolex Daytona (1963)

Among the most highly anticipated watch anniversaries this year is the Daytona’s – after all, it’s one of the most coveted watches in existence, regardless of whether it’s vintage or modern. Its story began in 1963 when Rolex introduced the ref 6239 “Cosmograph”, a chronograph with a tachymeter on its bezel, which was especially made for race car drivers.

 

The inaugural Rolex Daytona ref 6239 (photo: Christie's)
The inaugural Rolex Daytona ref 6239 (photo: Christie’s)

 

There have been three generations of the Daytona since then, with the last one having been introduced in 2000. It is marked by the launch of Rolex’s first in-house chronograph movement, the Caliber 4130, which has powered the Daytona since then.

 

Rolex Daytona Watches with Cerachrom Ceramic Bezels
Rolex Daytona Watches with Cerachrom Ceramic Bezels

 

For 2023, the Daytona headlines the new releases of Rolex. An entirely new range of Daytonas are introduced with a redesigned case and bezel, where the edge of the bezel is now crafted in the same material as the case. This makes the dial look larger, but fret not, the Daytona remains at 40mm.

 

The new Rolex Daytona Platinum with Caliber 4131 (photo: Rolex)
The new Rolex Daytona Platinum with Caliber 4131 (photo: Rolex)

 

More importantly, Rolex finally updated the Daytona’s movement. The new Caliber 4131 now shows a Rolex-exclusive Côtes de Genève decoration, which comes with a polished groove between with each ridge. It also comes with the improvements that Rolex introduced to its movements – including the Chronergy escapement, Paraflex shock absorbers, and an optimized ball bearing for better accuracy and performance. It also offers an improved power reserve of 72 hours.

 


 

60 Years – Heuer Carrera (1963)

Even before the Carrera was introduced, Heuer had already established a reputation in the world of motorsports thanks to their stopwatches. Still, Jack Heuer continued to see the need for a legible chronograph. He desired to develop one with a clean, simple design – one that would give the wearer everything they need, and nothing they don’t.

 

The inaugural Heuer Carrera ref 2447 SN (photo: Christie's)
The inaugural Heuer Carrera ref 2447 SN (photo: Christie’s)

 

In 1963, Heuer debuted the Carrera. Named after the dangerous and infamous Carrera Panamericana race, it achieved immediate success due to its classical styling.

Over the decades, the Carrera has grown into a vast collection that includes, alongside the classic cushion-cased Carrera silhouette, avant garde skeleton dials and the use of newer materials like titanium and ceramic.

 

Tag Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph Titanium Mens Watch CAR5A8Y
Tag Heuer Carrera Tourbillon Chronograph Titanium Mens Watch CAR5A8Y

 

To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the Tag Heuer Carrera, the brand introduced several novelties, headlined by the Carrera Chronograph 39mm, which features the new “glassbox” design.

Its domed crystal calls back to the hesalite crystal designs from the 1970s, and displays the tachymeter bezel in a slightly different way. While it was typically laid flat on the edges of the dial, the glassbox design follows the sloping edges of the crystal, resulting in a vintage-meets-modern look.

 

The new Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm (photo: Tag Heuer)
The new Tag Heuer Carrera Chronograph 39mm (photo: Tag Heuer)

 


 

30 Years – Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore (1993)

It’s not just the mid-century classics that are celebrating big milestones this year. The relatively young AP Royal Oak Offshore, whom we all know as the beefier and perhaps more adventurous sibling of the Royal Oak, turns 30 this year.

 

The original Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore ref 25721ST (photo: Christie's)
The original Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore ref 25721ST (photo: Christie’s)

 

Introduced in 1993, the Royal Oak Offshore was the brand’s answer to the growing preference for larger watches. As a derivative of the classic Royal Oak, the Offshore collection also allowed Audemars Piguet to experiment with new materials, color schemes, and statement designs, thus getting the attention of a younger audience.

Since then, the Royal Oak Offshore has become the go-to of watch collectors who seek a powerful and sporty timepiece.

 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Rose Gold Chronograph Watch 26470OR
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Rose Gold Chronograph Watch 26470OR

 

For its 30th anniversary, Audemars Piguet presented four new Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronographs, all in black ceramic. These include: a tribute to the 1999 “End of Days” model, a 42mm Self-Winding Chronograph, a 43mm Flying Tourbillon, and one that combines black ceramic with gold accents for powerful contrast.

 

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph “End Of Days II”
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph “End Of Days II”
(photo: Audemars Piguet)

 


 

That these watches have stood the test of time and continue to inspire today’s timepieces is indeed worth celebrating. To get your piece of watch history, explore our vast selection of watches, vintage and modern, at SwissWatchExpo.com.

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3 Generations of the Rolex Submariner

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