The 1950s marked a pivotal era for watchmaking, often considered the first golden age of horology. It was a time of post-World War II optimism and rapid technological advancements, which greatly influenced the design and functionality of timepieces. During this period, several watches were introduced that have since become iconic and highly sought after.
The watches from the 1950s showcased a combination of timeless elegance, technical innovation, and durability. While there were a number of legendary pieces introduced during this period, we’ve narrowed down our list to the 5 best watches from the 1950s.
With the world becoming more interconnected and global travel on the rise, watches like the Rolex GMT-Master 6542 were designed to meet the needs of pilots and frequent travelers with its unique GMT functionality. The Rolex Submariner 5512, equipped with crown guards and a unidirectional rotating bezel, catered to the growing popularity of diving.
Rolex also introduced the Rolex Explorer 6610, tailored for adventurers and explorers, and the Rolex President Day-Date 1803, which became a symbol of prestige and exclusivity with its day and date display. On the other hand, the Omega Speedmaster CK 2915 signaled the beginning of one of the most iconic chronograph ranges in history.
These watches not only encapsulated the spirit of their time but also introduced innovative features and design elements that set the stage for future watchmaking. Their enduring appeal lies in their exceptional craftsmanship, timeless aesthetics, and the stories they carry from an era of progress and discovery. Here’s more on our picks for the best watches from the 1950s:
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Rolex Explorer 6610
The Rolex Explorer holds a significant place in the history of Rolex watches. Introduced in 1953, it was designed with a specific focus on meeting the needs of explorers and adventurers.
This Rolex Explorer 6610 was released in 1959 as the successor to the earlier Explorer 6150 and was produced until 1963. The Explorer collection itself has its roots in the historic ascent of Mount Everest in 1953 when Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit while wearing Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches.
What makes the Rolex Explorer 6610 unique are its distinct features and contributions to the Explorer collection. Firstly, it was the first Explorer model to be equipped with an in-house chronometer-certified movement. This designation ensured that the watch met the strict precision and accuracy standards set by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). The addition of a chronometer movement was a significant advancement in the world of watchmaking at the time and enhanced the reliability of the timepiece, especially in challenging environments.
The Explorer 6610 also introduced the iconic “Mercedes” hands, which are characterized by their distinctive shape, resembling the three-pronged steering wheel emblem of the Mercedes-Benz car. These hands, combined with luminescent hour markers on the black dial, ensured optimal legibility even in low-light conditions. The watch featured a stainless steel case, providing durability and water resistance.
The addition of the chronometer movement and the iconic Mercedes hands further established the Explorer as a reliable and functional tool watch for explorers and adventurers.
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Rolex GMT-Master 6542
The Rolex GMT-Master 6542 holds a special place in the history of Rolex watches as it was the first model in the renowned GMT-Master collection. First commissioned by Pan American Airlines, the GMT-Master 6542 was specifically designed to meet the needs of pilots and frequent travelers who required the ability to track multiple time zones.
The GMT-Master 6542 made its debut in 1954 and quickly gained popularity due to its innovative features. One of the most distinctive features of the 6542 was the addition of a fourth hand, known as the GMT hand. This hand, adorned with a large arrow, allowed wearers to track a second time zone independently from the regular hour hand. The GMT hand could be adjusted using the rotating bezel, which featured a 24-hour scale. This functionality was particularly useful for pilots navigating across different time zones.
Another unique feature of the GMT-Master 6542 was its colorful bezel, which became an iconic design element. The original bezel, often referred to as the “Pepsi” bezel, featured alternating red and blue sections, reminiscent of the colors found in the Pepsi logo. The vibrant bezel not only added a touch of style but also provided a visual cue for distinguishing between day and night hours.
The GMT-Master 6542 introduced several new features to the Rolex collection. It was the first Rolex watch to incorporate the GMT complication, revolutionizing the way travelers and pilots could track multiple time zones. The introduction of the rotating 24-hour bezel with the 24-hour scale was also a new addition to Rolex’s repertoire.
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Rolex President Day-Date 1803
The Rolex President Day-Date 1803 is a legendary timepiece and definitely cemented a place in the history of the Rolex brand. Another watch of the 1950s, it became an emblematic watch that epitomized prestige, luxury, and exclusivity. The Day-Date collection was groundbreaking as it was the first wristwatch to display both the day of the week and the date spelled out in full. The ref 1803 was one of the earliest models from the range, hitting the market in 1958.
The Rolex President Day-Date 1803 was crafted with exceptional attention to detail and featured several unique characteristics. First is an acrylic crystal which was standard at the time. All succeeding models of the Day-Date were fitted with sapphire crystals, which Rolex uses exclusively until today.
Another distinguishing feature of the ref 1803 are its “Pie Pan” dials. Such dials have outer edges that point downwards, creating the shape similar to an inverted pan. The two previous editions of the Day-Date also had Pie Pan dials, and the ref 1803 was the last one to feature this style.
The President bracelet, introduced with the Day-Date model, remained a hallmark feature of the 1803. However, the bracelet links used at the time had hollow links, making them lighter than the solid links being used in modern Day-Date editions. The ref 1803 models also often had leather bracelets, lending a more casual look to the timepiece.
Although the Day-Date collection itself was introduced in 1956, the Rolex President Day-Date 1803 refined and solidified its reputation as a symbol of power and success. Its introduction set the stage for future Day-Date models, which would continue to be coveted by watch enthusiasts and collectors worldwide.
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Rolex Submariner 5512
The Rolex Submariner 5512 is significant, particularly when it comes to the development of the iconic Submariner collection. The Submariner 5512 was a pivotal model that helped establish the Submariner as a benchmark for dive watches.
The Submariner 5512, released in 1959, introduced several features that made it unique and highly sought after. One of its most notable additions was the inclusion of the Twinlock crown. This new feature increased the water resistance to 200m (from 100m) combined with crown guards for the first time.
Furthermore, the Submariner 5512 featured a rotating bezel, allowing divers to accurately measure immersion times and decompression stops. The bezel had clear markings and a serrated edge for ease of operation, a crucial feature for professional divers.
While the Submariner collection had already been established, the 5512 model brought new advancements to the collection. The addition of crown guards was a significant enhancement, improving the watch’s resilience and setting a standard for subsequent Submariner models. This feature became a defining characteristic of the Submariner line, distinguishing it from other Rolex collections.
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Omega Speedmaster CK 2915
Introduced in 1957, this watch holds immense historical significance and became the foundation for what would later become one of the most iconic chronograph watches in the world.
The CK 2915, also known as as the first ever Speedy, takes us back to the time when the Omega Speedmaster as a mid-century chronograph, and not yet a Moonwatch. This origin reference has many distinct features that collectors seek.
These include a stainless steel tachymetre scale, unlike the black aluminum used for the MoonWatch. Many of these models also have a “tropical” dial or a milk chocolate color with Broad Arrow hands that exhibit some patina. The Broad Arrow hour hand is a distinct design element characterized by its wide arrowhead shape.
The CK 2915 also introduced the manually wound Caliber 321 movement, which remains highly regarded for its precision and reliability. This movement would go on to power subsequent Speedmaster models and became an integral part of the collection’s heritage.
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Best Watches from the 1950s – Final Thoughts
With their enduring appeal, these vintage watches from the 1950s inspire admiration. The Rolex Explorer 6610, GMT-Master 6542, President Day-Date 1803, and Submariner 5512, along with the Omega Speedmaster CK 2915, are iconic watches from the 1950s that continue to set benchmarks for today’s timepieces.
These watches, each with their unique features and historical significance, continue to captivate collectors and enthusiasts today. SwissWatchExpo offers a curated selection of vintage watches, including these timeless classics, preserving the legacy of horological excellence for generations to come.
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