Rolex Submariner 16610 Buying Guide

Rolex Submariner 16610 Buying Guide - Rolex Submariner Date Black Dial Steel Mens Watch 16610

The Rolex Submariner 16610, a distinguished member of the Submariner series, commands a special place in the realm of luxury timepieces. Launched in the late 1980s, it ushered in an era of prominence that spanned over two decades, culminating in 2010. This model transcends the conventional perception of a watch, standing as an emblem of perennial excellence. Its design, which seamlessly blends classic aesthetics with unparalleled functional prowess, has captivated watch enthusiasts worldwide.

Rolex Submariner Date Black Dial Steel Mens Watch 16610
Rolex Submariner Date Black Dial Steel Mens Watch 16610

Rooted deeply in the heritage of the original Submariner, the ref 16610 represents a significant evolutionary leap. It heralded the introduction of revolutionary elements like the new Rolex Caliber 3135 and the transition to 904L stainless steel, redefining the benchmarks for robustness and accuracy in the watchmaking industry. Throughout its production life, the 16610 underwent a series of refinements, subtly transforming to meet and exceed the rigorous expectations of precision timekeeping, especially in challenging underwater environments.

In this guide, we explore the illustrious history of the Rolex Submariner 16610, tracing its journey from inception to its celebrated status in the modern era. This exploration is designed to provide a thorough understanding of the Submariner 16610, making it an essential reference for collectors and admirers of this iconic timepiece.
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Rolex Submariner Steel Models - ref 1680, 16610 and 124060
Rolex Submariner Steel Models – ref 1680, 16610 and 124060

A Brief History of the Rolex Submariner 16610

In 1953, the world of horology witnessed a revolutionary moment with the birth of the Rolex Submariner, a timepiece destined to redefine the standards of dive watches. This groundbreaking model not only set the benchmark for underwater timekeeping but also began a journey of relentless innovation and refinement. The Submariner’s introduction marked the beginning of a new era, where functionality and elegance coalesced to create a legend.

Rolex Submariner 5508
Rolex Submariner 5508. An example of a 37mm Submariner. (photo: Christie’s)

As the years progressed, the Submariner underwent significant transformations, each enhancing its capabilities and appeal. In 1959, a pivotal change occurred when Rolex increased the case size from a modest 37mm to a more robust 40mm. This alteration was not merely aesthetic; it represented a leap in the watch’s visibility and presence, both above and below the water.

The year 1969 brought another critical milestone: the integration of a date aperture. This feature added a new layer of functionality, making the Submariner not just a diving tool but also a more versatile everyday watch. The addition of the date function exemplified Rolex’s commitment to combining practicality with sophistication.

Rolex Submariner Date Steel Mens Vintage Watch 16800
Rolex Submariner ref 16800. The first Submariner to be equipped with a sapphire crystal

In 1979, the Submariner series embraced another technological advancement with the adoption of sapphire crystal. This material, known for its remarkable scratch resistance and clarity, replaced the acrylic crystals used in previous models. This upgrade significantly enhanced the durability and longevity of the watch, further solidifying its status as a paragon of reliability.

The year 1988 was marked by a substantial innovation – the transition to 904L stainless steel, a material superior in corrosion resistance compared to the traditional 316L steel. This shift not only exemplified Rolex’s pursuit of excellence in material quality but also underscored the brand’s dedication to enduring craftsmanship.

Rolex Submariner Date Black Dial Steel Mens Watch 16610
Rolex Submariner Date Black Dial Steel Mens Watch 16610

In the same pivotal year, Rolex introduced the Submariner 16610, equipped with the new Rolex Caliber 3135. This movement was a leap forward in precision and reliability, ensuring that the 16610 was not just a symbol of luxury but also a beacon of mechanical ingenuity. The 3135 movement’s introduction was a testament to Rolex’s unwavering commitment to pushing the boundaries of watchmaking.

The 16610 model enjoyed more than two decades of success, becoming synonymous with the Submariner’s identity. However, in 2010, Rolex decided to retire the 16610 in favor of modern upgrades.

Rolex Submariner Steel ref 116610
Rolex Submariner Steel ref 116610. The first Rolex Submariner steel watch with a Cerachrom bezel and Super Case

This decision was driven by the introduction of advanced features like the Cerachrom bezel, a ceramic material known for its fade-resistant properties, and the Maxi Dial, which offered better legibility. Additionally, the new models featured a more substantial case design known as the Super Case and a bracelet with solid links, enhancing both the aesthetics and the durability of the watch.

The retirement of the Submariner 16610 marked the end of an era, but its legacy lives on. It bridged the gap between the early vintage Submariners and the contemporary iterations, encapsulating a period of significant evolution in Rolex’s history. The 16610 remains a beloved and sought-after model among collectors, celebrated for its classic design, its pivotal role in the Submariner’s evolution, and its enduring appeal as a symbol of luxury watchmaking.


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Key Features of Rolex Submariner 16610 Watches

In this section, we aim to uncover the intricacies of its design and mechanics, including the notable shift from 316L to 904L stainless steel, which marked a significant improvement in durability and resistance. The evolution of its luminescence technology, a vital aspect for its functionality as a diver’s watch, is also a key focal point. Additionally, we look into the different versions of this iconic model, leading up to the remarkable 50th-anniversary edition, “The Kermit.”
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Rolex Submariner ref 16610 vs 116610
Rolex Submariner Steel Watch ref 16610 vs 116610

Submariner 16610 Case

The case of the Rolex Submariner 16610 is a marvel of engineering and material science. Crafted from 904L stainless steel, an upgrade from the traditional 316L steel, it offers enhanced corrosion resistance, a crucial feature for a watch designed for everyday wear and aquatic environments. This high-grade steel ensures the watch retains its luster and structural integrity even in harsh saltwater conditions.

Rolex Submariner Date Black Dial Steel Mens Watch 16610
Rolex Submariner Date Black Dial Steel Mens Watch 16610

The case measures a robust 40mm in diameter, maintaining the classic Submariner silhouette while offering a substantial and confident presence on the wrist. During its production lifespan, Rolex implemented significant changes, including the transition from cases with pierced lug holes to a more modern design. A few years later (2005) the rehaut received a new engraving with “ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX”.

This evolution not only reflected Rolex’s commitment to aesthetic refinement but also to the functional improvement of the watch, ensuring easier bracelet changes and enhancing the overall structural integrity of the case.

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Submariner 16610 Bezel

The bezel of the Rolex Submariner 16610 is a standout feature, both in terms of design and functionality. This bezel is distinguished by a meticulously crafted steel serrated edge, providing a firm grip that is essential for divers. This tactile feature is not just for aesthetic appeal; it is a practical consideration, allowing the bezel to be easily rotated even with wet hands or gloves.

Rolex Submariner Date Black Dial Steel Mens Watch 16610
Rolex Submariner Date Black Dial Steel Mens Watch 16610

The bezel operates with a 120-click unidirectional motion, a design choice that ensures precision and safety. Each click represents a half-minute increment, allowing divers to accurately track their time underwater.

The unidirectional nature of the bezel is a critical safety feature; it prevents accidental counter-clockwise movements, which could otherwise erroneously suggest more remaining dive time. The precise, tactile feedback of the clicks adds a layer of assurance, confirming the adjustments made even without looking. This combination of thoughtful design and functional excellence makes the bezel of the Submariner 16610 a benchmark in dive watch design.

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Rolex Submariner Steel Watch 16610
Rolex Submariner Steel Watch 16610 (photo: Christie’s)

Submariner 16610 Dial and Luminescence

The dial of the Rolex Submariner 16610 is a study in refined functionality, characterized by its gloss black surfaces, crisp white text, and hour markers outlined in white gold. These elements combine to create a look of understated elegance, ensuring legibility and timeless style. This model’s dial, however, is not just about aesthetics but also about technological evolution, especially in its luminescence.

Rolex Submariner Date Black Dial Steel Mens Watch 16610
Rolex Submariner 16610 with Tritium Lume. Note the SWISS – T<25 below 6 o’clock.

From 1988 to 1998, the Submariner 16610 utilized Tritium for its luminescent material. Tritium, denoted by the “SWISS – T<25” signature below the 6 o’clock marker, is known for its steady glow but has a limited lifespan as it dims over years. In response to evolving safety standards and the quest for longer-lasting luminescence, Rolex transitioned to Luminova between 1998 and 2000. This change is identifiable on the dial by the “SWISS” signature. Luminova, a non-radioactive material, offered an improved glow but required exposure to light to charge.

Rolex Submariner Date Black Dial Steel Mens Watch 16610
Rolex Submariner 16610 with Luminova markers. Note the SWISS MADE signature at 6 o’clock.

The final leap in the evolution of the 16610’s luminescence came with the adoption of Super-LumiNova, from 2000 until the end of the model’s production in 2010. This advanced material, indicated on the dial by the “Swiss Made” signature, is superior in terms of brightness and longevity compared to its predecessors.

Each type of lume used in the Submariner 16610 represents a step forward in Rolex’s commitment to functionality and safety. The variations in the dial signature not only tell the story of technological advancement but also add a layer of uniqueness to each watch, making them especially appealing to collectors and enthusiasts of the brand.

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Rolex Caliber 3135 Movement bw
Rolex Caliber 3135 Movement

Submariner 16610 Movement

The heart of the Rolex Submariner 16610 is the Caliber 3135, a movement that represents a significant advancement in Rolex’s horological engineering. Introduced in 1988, this self-winding mechanical movement set new standards for precision and durability in the watchmaking industry. Its predecessor, the Caliber 3035, was already a testament to Rolex’s commitment to excellence, but the 3135 brought with it a series of enhancements that further solidified Rolex’s reputation for reliability and accuracy.

Rolex Caliber 3135
Rolex Caliber 3135

One of the most notable improvements in the Caliber 3135 is its greater resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, thanks to the use of a blue Parachrom hairspring and integration of the Paraflex shock absorbers. This innovation ensures that the movement remains accurate in the most challenging environments, a crucial attribute for a watch designed for the rigors of diving. Additionally, the 3135 boasts a more efficient winding mechanism and a power reserve of approximately 48 hours, ensuring consistent performance even when not worn daily.

The integration of the Caliber 3135 into the Submariner 16610 marked a pivotal moment in the model’s history. It elevated the watch from a mere timekeeping instrument to a symbol of cutting-edge technology and enduring craftsmanship, further cementing the Submariner’s legacy in the world of luxury watches.

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Rolex Submariner 16610 Buying Guide - Rolex Submariner Date 16610 and 116610
Rolex Submariner Date 16610 versus 116610

Submariner 16610 Bracelet

The bracelet of the Rolex Submariner 16610, known for its robustness and comfort, experienced significant evolution during its production years. Initially featuring the classic three-link Oyster bracelet design, early models of the 16610 were equipped with hollow end-links. These links, while lightweight, were prone to wear over time. Recognizing the need for enhanced durability, Rolex later transitioned to solid steel end-links in newer models. This change markedly improved the bracelet’s sturdiness and overall feel, giving it a more substantial and premium quality.

Rolex Submariner Date 40mm Black Dial Steel Mens Watch 16610
Rolex Submariner Date 40mm Black Dial Steel Mens Watch 16610

In addition to the end-links, the Submariner 16610’s diver’s extension also underwent refinement. Early models included a fold-out extension piece, a practical feature for fitting the watch over a diving suit. However, Rolex later introduced a more sophisticated link-based design for the extension, further enhancing the bracelet’s functionality and ease of use. This evolution in both the end-links and the diver’s extension showcases Rolex’s commitment to continuous improvement, ensuring their watches meet the highest standards of quality and practicality.


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Roler Kermit Versions
Rolex Submariner Green Bezel Watches – 16610 and 126610 LV

The Green Rolex Submariner 16610 ‘The Kermit’

The Rolex Submariner 16610LV, affectionately known as “The Kermit,” was unveiled in 2003, marking a significant milestone in the Rolex saga. This edition was crafted to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the Submariner, a series that had firmly established itself as a paragon in the world of dive watches. With the release of the Kermit, Rolex not only celebrated half a century of horological mastery but also signaled a bold new chapter in the design and aesthetic of the Submariner lineage.

The Kermit immediately set itself apart with its distinctive green bezel. This striking feature was a first for Rolex in the Submariner category, and it was more than just a cosmetic update. The green bezel, made of robust anodized aluminum, was symbolic. It represented the depth and enigma of the ocean, echoing the Submariner’s origins as a diver’s watch. This vibrant, verdant hue quickly became iconic, distinguishing the Kermit in the Submariner family and among luxury watches in general.

Rolex Submariner Kermit Green Bezel Steel Mens Watch 16610LV
Rolex Submariner Kermit Green Bezel Steel Mens Watch 16610LV

Beyond the bezel, the Kermit introduced the Maxi Dial to the Submariner line, a design element that would become a hallmark in later models. This dial was characterized by its larger indexes and broader hands, diverging from the more understated aesthetic of the classic 16610. The Maxi Dial was not just an aesthetic innovation; it enhanced the watch’s legibility under the challenging conditions of deep-water dives. This functional consideration was a testament to Rolex’s commitment to blending form and function seamlessly.

Rolex Kermit 16610LV
Rolex Submariner Kermit 16610LV Flat 4 Edition

The nomenclature of the 16610LV itself holds significance, with ‘LV’ standing for ‘Lunette Verte’, French for ‘Green Bezel’. This naming convention was a nod to the watch’s unique identity within the Submariner range. The Kermit was more than a variant; it was a special edition that celebrated the legacy and future of the Submariner series.

The Kermit’s allure is further deepened by the subtle variations found in its bezel. The differentiation between the Flat 4 and Sharp 4 bezel types became a point of fascination among collectors and enthusiasts. In the Flat 4 variant, the top of the numeral ‘4’ in the ’40’ marker on the bezel is more squared, giving it a trapezoidal appearance. The Sharp 4 design, on the other hand, features a more triangular and pointed top of the ‘4’. These small but significant differences, often found in different production batches, have led to a spirited debate and interest in the nuances of Rolex manufacturing and design evolution.

Rolex Kermit 16610LV
Rolex Submariner Kermit 16610LV Flat 4 Edition

The Kermit was not just a tribute to the past; it was a harbinger of the future. It paved the way for subsequent innovations in the Submariner series, including the introduction of colored and ceramic bezels and improved luminescence in later models. The Kermit represented a bridge between the traditional Submariner aesthetic and a new era of design and functionality.

Today, the Rolex Submariner 16610LV stands as a collectible piece, sought after for its unique place in Rolex’s history. It symbolizes a pivotal moment in the brand’s journey, where tradition met innovation, and a classic was reborn with a modern twist. For watch collectors and aficionados, the Kermit is not just a timepiece; it’s a piece of history, a testament to Rolex’s enduring legacy in the world of luxury horology.


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Final Thoughts

The Rolex Submariner 16610, with its rich heritage and unparalleled craftsmanship, stands as a beacon in the world of luxury watchmaking. This model, spanning a production period from the late 1980s to 2010, embodies the pinnacle of design and functional excellence that Rolex is renowned for. Its journey from the integration of the robust 904L steel to the adoption of the advanced Caliber 3135 movement marks significant advancements in horological engineering. The Submariner 16610, with its classic aesthetics and robust functionality, encapsulates a perfect blend of tradition and innovation, making it a symbol of Rolex’s enduring legacy.

Rolex Submariner Date Black Dial Steel Mens Watch 16610
Rolex Submariner Date Black Dial Steel Mens Watch 16610

Beyond its technical prowess, the Submariner 16610 has emerged as a coveted piece for collectors and watch enthusiasts. Its value transcends mere monetary worth; it represents a significant chapter in the storied history of Rolex. The model’s collectibility is enhanced by its variations, such as the iconic “Kermit,” which adds a layer of rarity and uniqueness to this already prestigious timepiece. Its enduring appeal is a testament to its timeless design and the unwavering quality that Rolex upholds.

Rolex Submariner Date Black Dial Steel Mens Watch 16610
Rolex Submariner Date Black Dial Steel Mens Watch 16610

For those intrigued by the allure of the Rolex Submariner 16610, SwissWatchExpo presents an invaluable resource. Offering a wealth of knowledge and a diverse collection, SwissWatchExpo caters to both seasoned collectors and new enthusiasts.

Whether seeking to purchase this iconic model or to delve deeper into its fascinating history, SwissWatchExpo is an essential destination. The Rolex Submariner 16610, a blend of horological innovation and timeless elegance, continues to captivate and inspire, remaining a pivotal piece in the tapestry of luxury watchmaking.
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