Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 1665 Ultimate Guide

Rolex Seadweller Black Dial Vintage Steel Mens Watch 1665

The Rolex Sea-Dweller, introduced in 1967, stands as a testament to the brand’s commitment to precision, durability, and innovation in the realm of professional diving watches. Designed to meet the rigorous demands of saturation diving, the Sea-Dweller series has carved its niche within the diving community and watch enthusiasts alike.

Among the illustrious lineup, the reference 1665 emerges as the inaugural model offered to the public, marking a significant milestone in Rolex’s history. This guide delves into the origins, distinct features, and the various dial variations of the Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 1665, illustrating why it remains a revered piece in the world of horology.

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Rolex Seadweller Black Dial Vintage Steel Mens Watch 1665
Rolex Seadweller Black Dial Vintage Steel Mens Watch 1665

About the Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 1665

Before the advent of the ref 1665, Rolex had already established itself as a pioneer in the development of dive watches. The brand’s journey into the deep began with the introduction of the Submariner in 1953, a watch capable of withstanding depths of up to 100 meters initially, with improvements over the years. However, as diving technology evolved, so did the need for watches that could endure the pressures of saturation diving. This led to the creation of the Sea-Dweller.

Rolex Sea-Dweller 1665 with Rolex GMT-Master 16710 and Rolex Explorer II 16550
Vintage Greats: Rolex Sea-Dweller 1665 with Rolex GMT-Master 16710 and Rolex Explorer II 16550

The Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 1665 was introduced in 1967 as a groundbreaking addition to the world of professional dive watches. It was the first Rolex to feature a helium escape valve, a critical innovation that allowed helium gas to escape the watch during decompression, preventing the crystal from popping off due to pressure differences. This model was also the first and only Sea-Dweller to sport an acrylic crystal and boasted a depth rating of 610 meters (2000 feet), unparalleled at the time. Additionally, it was the only Sea-Dweller model with a movement that lacked a quickset date feature, further distinguishing it from its successors.

Rolex Seadweller Vintage Steel Mens Watch 1665 Mark IV dial
Rolex Seadweller Vintage Steel Mens Watch 1665 Mark IV dial

Key timelines in the history of the Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 1665:

1967 – the Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 1665 is introduced to the public. It is the first Sea-Dweller to be sold commercially. Only slightly over 100 of these watches were made.

1968 – the Mark II Double Red Sea-Dwellers hit the market. These models have two rows of red writing on the dial, and case backs with “Rolex Patent Oyster Gas Escape Valve” engraving. By this time, the helium escape valve has been successfully patented by Rolex.

1977 – the Rolex Sea-Dweller switches to all-white text for its dial, prompting collectors to call it “Great White”

1983 – the Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 1665 is discontinued, making way for the ref 16660 as the standalone Sea-Dweller model


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Rolex Sea-Dweller Ref 1665 Dial Variations

Produced from 1967 – 1983, the Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 1665 has undergone several changes. It is renowned for its array of dial variations, each with its own story and allure that make it sought-after among collectors.
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Rolex Sea-Dweller Double Red ref 1665 (photo: Christie's)
Rolex Sea-Dweller Double Red ref 1665 (photo: Christie’s)

Double Red Sea-Dweller (DRSD)

The Double Red Sea-Dweller (DRSD) ref. 1665, produced between 1967 and 1977, is a highly sought-after vintage Rolex dive watch, celebrated for its pioneering features and distinctive aesthetic. This model was the first to introduce the helium escape valve (HEV), marking a significant advancement in dive watch technology. The DRSD’s name derives from the two lines of red text on its dial, “SEA-DWELLER” and “SUBMARINER 2000”, which distinguish it from later models with white text.

The DRSD underwent several dial variations throughout its production, known among collectors as Mark I through Mark IV.

Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 1665 Double Red "Patent Pending" (photo: Christie's)
Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 1665 Double Red “Patent Pending” (photo: Christie’s)

The Mark I dial, known for its “Patent Pending” case back, is the earliest and rarest, making it highly prized among collectors. These initial models featured a matte black dial with red text over white, which has faded to a faint pink over time in many examples.

The Mark II dials introduced slight design changes, including a smaller “Submariner 2000” text and distinctive touches like the “smudge crown” at the 12 o’clock position. Some Mark II dials have oxidized to a “chocolate” brown color, adding to their appeal.

The Mark III and IV dials represent the later production stages, with the Mark IV being the most common but still highly valued for its vintage charm and the robustness of Rolex’s design​​​​​​​​.

Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 1665 Double Red "Patent Pending" (photo: Christie's)
Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 1665 Double Red “Patent Pending” (photo: Christie’s)

The DRSD models are not only significant for their technological innovation but also for their role in Rolex’s history as a maker of professional dive watches. Their durability, coupled with the unique aesthetic of the red text and the vintage appeal of the domed acrylic crystal, make them a favorite among collectors. The variations in dial markings, case back inscriptions, and the patina developed over time contribute to each piece’s unique story, embodying Rolex’s commitment to excellence and innovation in the world of dive watches.
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Rolex Seadweller Vintage Steel Mens Watch 1665 Mark IV dial
Rolex Seadweller Vintage Steel Mens Watch 1665 Mark IV dial

Great White Dials

The Rolex Sea-Dweller “Great White” reference 1665, introduced in 1977, represents a significant evolution in Rolex’s line of professional dive watches. Distinguished from its predecessor, the Double Red Sea-Dweller, by the switch from red to white text on the dial and the removal of the “Submariner 2000” designation, the Great White marks Rolex’s intent to distinguish the Sea-Dweller as a standalone model. This change not only solidified the Sea-Dweller’s identity but also set a new direction for future models​​.

The Great White was produced for less than five years, yet it boasts a fascinating array of dial variations known as Mark 0 through Mark IV, each with unique characteristics that appeal to collectors.

Rolex Seadweller Black Dial Vintage Steel Mens Watch 1665
Rolex Seadweller Black Dial Vintage Steel Mens Watch 1665

The Mark 0, the rarest, features a “SEA-DWELLER” text that stretches out longer than the second line of text, “2000 ft = 600m,” and includes a closed 6 rather than an open one.

Conversely, the Mark I aligns the edges of the first two lines of text and switches to an open 6.

The Mark II, or “Rail Dial,” is noted for its alignment of the letter “C” in “Chronometer” with the “C” in “Certified” and italicized “ft” and “m” in the depth ratings.

The Mark III and IV dials introduce slight variations in font and the number 6, with the Mark IV being very similar to the Mark III but with subtle differences detectable mainly by dedicated vintage Rolex enthusiasts​​.

Rolex Seadweller Black Dial Vintage Steel Mens Watch 1665
Rolex Seadweller Black Dial Vintage Steel Mens Watch 1665

The Great White’s significance extends beyond its dial variations. It was the last Sea-Dweller model to feature a plexiglass crystal, adding to its vintage appeal. Despite the introduction of the Sea-Dweller ref. 16660 in 1978, the Great White continued production into the early 1980s, overlapping with its successor for a few years and offering collectors a unique piece of Rolex’s dive watch history​​.

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Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 1665 COMEX Dial (photo: Sotheby's)
Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 1665 COMEX Dial (photo: Sotheby’s)

COMEX Dials

The Rolex COMEX Sea-Dweller Ref. 1665, produced from 1977 to 1981, is a rare and highly collectible model, with only 300 examples made. This model is part of the “Great White” series and features a distinctive COMEX logo on the dial, a hallmark of its exclusive issuance to the French commercial diving company COMEX.

The watch lacks the “Sea-Dweller” text on the dial, focusing instead on the COMEX branding, and features a “Rail Dial” for its original Mark I dials, characterized by the alignment of the letter Cs in “CHRONOMETER” and “CERTIFIED”. The depth rating on the dial notably states “2000ft = 600m”. Service dials, categorized as Mark II, introduced some changes, including the depth rating adjustment to “610m”​​.

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Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 1665 'Qaboos' Dial Made for the Sultan of Oman (photo: Phillips)
Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 1665 ‘Qaboos’ Dial Made for the Sultan of Oman (photo: Phillips)

Special Middle East Dials

Rolex has a tradition of creating special dial watches for the Middle Eastern market, featuring Eastern Arabic numerals. This custom began in the 1950s with the Day-Date model being particularly popular. For the Rolex Sea-Dweller, the Arabic dial versions were made only for royal families, thus they often featured unique crests such as the “Khanjar” or the national symbol of Oman, and the “Qaboos” with the signature of Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said, the former Sultan of Oman.


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Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 1665 – Final Thoughts

The Rolex Sea-Dweller ref 1665 remains an iconic piece within the brand’s illustrious history, embodying the spirit of innovation and the relentless pursuit of excellence. Its unique features and the variety of dial variations make it a highly prized collectible among watch enthusiasts. Whether it’s the pioneering helium escape valve, the distinctive acrylic crystal, or the myriad of dial options, the ref 1665 has cemented its place as a cornerstone of Rolex’s dive watch legacy.

For those looking to dive deeper into the world of vintage Rolex watches or to possibly acquire a Sea-Dweller ref 1665, SwissWatchExpo offers a curated selection of luxury timepieces, including rare and vintage models. Their expertise and extensive collection provide a reliable resource for collectors and watch aficionados alike, seeking to own a piece of Rolex’s storied history.

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