The bezel of a watch, positioned front and center on the watch’s face, holds significant importance in terms of both aesthetics and functionality. With a distinctive design language, Rolex has developed a wide range of bezels that not only enhance the watch’s functionality, but also elevate it aesthetic appeal, contributing to the brand’s strong and recognizable brand identity.
Rolex’s bezels are meticulously crafted and designed to withstand the demands of everyday wear while exuding timeless elegance. Now, let’s explore the diverse array of Rolex bezels, showcasing the variety and innovation that sets them apart.
<
What is a bezel?
A watch bezel is the ring-shaped component that surrounds and holds down the watch glass or crystal, protecting the dial and movement from external elements and ensuring water resistance.
Watch bezels serve both aesthetic and functional purposes. In addition to securing the crystal, the watch bezel can also feature numerical markings and other indicators that may be used for measuring time intervals, or tracking elapsed time.
First used in the 1930s, the watch bezel has played a pivotal role in the evolutionary journey of the watch industry. Initially, bezels were introduced as modest embellishments that serve both a practical and decorative purpose.
It was in the 1950s that functional bezels really took off. In 1953, Blancpain introduced the unidirectional rotating bezel to their Fifty Fathoms diving watch. In 1957, Omega was the first to put the tachymeter scale on the bezel of the watch. Since then, the bezel emerged as a crucial tool for tracking time accurately while engaging in various activities.
<>
Different Types of Rolex Bezels
Recognizable even from afar, Rolex watches have established a strong design identity through their exceptional bezels. These bezels not only enhance the timepiece’s functionality but also reflect the brand’s commitment to both form and function.
<>
Decorative Rolex Bezels
Apart from securing the crystal onto the watch case, Rolex bezels have also been used for decorative purposes, adding to the visual appeal and enhancing the overall design of their watches.
<>
SMOOTH
This is Rolex’s most traditional bezel; and is used on stainless steel, gold (yellow, white or Everose) and platinum watches. They are leveled and glossy and can be either flat or domed depending on the model. This design is not unique to Rolex; but it is considered their most versatile bezel, often used as the default design for their entry-level timepieces.
<>
<>
FLUTED
The Rolex fluted bezel is one of the most iconic design elements of the brand. With its ribbed and grooved appearance, it was created to help screw down the bezel onto the crystal and provide an easy grip. Rolex has exclusively crafted its fluted bezels in solid gold to enhance their decorative appeal, adding a touch of elegance to their watches.
<>
<>
GEM-SET
Gem-set bezels make use of precious gems such as sapphires, and most frequently, diamonds. They are used to provide extra sparkle and distinction to the most exclusive and luxurious Rolex timepieces, whether they’re dress-type watches (like the Datejust or Day-Date) or for sport (like the Daytona).
<>
<>
ENGINE-TURNED (discontinued)
The engine turned bezel was once a popular option for those who did not want a fluted bezel but also wanted something more decorated than a smooth bezel. It’s characterized by its smaller ridges and thick, smooth lines around the hour markers. This is most commonly found on the Date and Air-King models.
<>
BARK FINISH (discontinued)
The bark finish features an even finer, rougher texture than the engine-turned bezel. These are often used in ornate, limited editions of the Day-Date and Datejust, and are crafted in gold.
<>
<>
Professional Rolex Bezels
Bezels on Rolex’s professional range are designed with specific features that serve practical purposes beyond their aesthetic appeal. They were designed to meet the specific needs of professionals and enthusiasts for various fields and activities.
<>
ROTATING BEZEL
These bezels have 60-minute graduations and, in conjuction with the minutes scale on the dial, are used to time events that last up to one hour.
For example, the Submariner’s rotating bezel helps divers monitor diving time and decompression stops; while the Yacht-master’s bezel counts how long it takes to cover a specific distance while sailing.
They can either be unidirectional (like in the Submariner or Sea-Dweller) or bi-directional (like in the Yacht-Master).
It is important to note that Rolex has switched to using unidirectional bezels for their dive watches since 1983. Having the bezel move only in one direction will ensure that the remaining dive time can only be reduced, not extended.
How to use a Rotating Bezel:
Begin by aligning the zero marker with the minute hand to set a reference point. As time passes, read the position of the minute hand against the bezel markings to track elapsed time. You can also monitor remaining time by observing how much time is left on the bezel.
<>
<>
24-HOUR
The 24-hour bezel, as its name suggests, is marked with a 24-hour scale and is used to reference another timezone. Rolex has two different types of 24-hour bezels: a stationary one as seen in the Rolex Explorer II, and a rotating one like the one used in the GMT-Master and GMT-Master II.
When used in conjunction with the 24-hour hand, it can be used to tell time in another timezone; while a fixed 24-hour bezel can be used as an AM-PM indicator.
How to use a 24-Hour Bezel:
Begin by aligning the 24-hour markers with the hour hand to set a reference time for a second time zone. Then, read the position of the 24-hour markers against the bezel scale to track the time in the second time zone or reference it against your current time zone.
<>
<>
TACHYMETER
The tachymeter bezel is used for chronograph watches and is used to measure speeds. It can either tell speed based on travel time or measure distance based on speed. This bezel is marked by a tachymetric scale, and is exclusively used by the Cosmograph Daytona in the Rolex catalog.
How to use a Tachymeter bezel:
Start the chronograph function on the Rolex Daytona by pushing the top pusher. Let the chronograph run for a specific distance, then push the top pusher again to halt it. Read the number on the tachymeter scale that aligns with the chronograph second hand to determine the average speed in units per hour.
<>
<>
RING COMMAND
The Ring Command bezel is used on Rolex’s most complex timepieces – the Rolex Yacht-Master II and the Rolex Sky-Dweller. It comes in a sporty, professional-style design on the Yacht-Master II and in an elegant fluted design in the Rolex Sky-Dweller.These watches have additional functions that can be too complicated to use the crown or “pushers” for, and so the bezel is used to set these complications.
In the Yacht-Master II, the Ring Command bezel is used to set and activate the 10-minute regatta countdown timer. In the Rolex Sky-Dweller, it is used to set the date, local time, and reference time.
How to use the Ring Command bezel:
Begin by unscrewing and pulling out the crown to the second position. Then, twist the bezel counterclockwise to select the desired function (this could be the date, local time, or reference time). Use the crown to set and adjust the chosen function before pushing the crown back in and screwing it down to secure your chosen setting.
<>
Every Rolex Bezel Type – Final Thoughts
Recognizable even from afar, Rolex has established a strong design identity through their exceptional bezels. These bezels not only enhance their watches’ functionality but also reflect the brand’s commitment to both form and function.
To explore our vast selection of Rolex watches, along with thousands of authentic, pre-owned luxury timepieces from the world’s best brands, go to SwissWatchExpo.com.
<>
