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Men's Pearlmaster | Ceramic Dress | Rolex Watch Collection

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The Rolex Oyster Perpetual Pearlmaster was introduced in 1992, as the brand’s crowning jewelry watch. Exclusively made in solid gold or platinum, and always with gems and diamonds, the Rolex Pearlmaster represents the height of elegance. The men’s Rolex Pearlmaster line comes with 39mm case designs, characterized by uniquely rich dials. Explore our collection of Rolex Pearlmaster watches for men at SwissWatchExpo.com.

Rolex Pearlmaster Collection

Photo of Rolex Pearlmaster watch

The Rolex Pearlmaster holds a special place in the Oyster collection as its crowning jewelry watch. Exclusively crafted from precious metals and always adorned with gemstones, the Pearlmaster sits at the crossroads of jewelry and horology.

Introduced in 1992, the Rolex Pearlmaster was positioned as the ultra-luxe take on the Datejust, Rolex’s universally adored timepiece. Aside from being cast exclusively in 18k gold or platinum, it is always decorated with diamonds, rubies, and sapphires. Moreover, a unique bracelet was especially designed for the Pearlmaster – one with five softly rounded links and enclosed with a concealed Crownlock clasp.

Rolex Pearlmaster watches are also far from simply being beautiful. Within each model are the same Rolex movements that have set industry standards in precision and timekeeping.

Representing some of the most expensive pieces in the Rolex catalog, the Pearlmaster is at the pinnacle of both the watchmaker and the gem-setter’s artistry. Explore our collection of Rolex Pearlmaster watches at SwissWatchExpo.com.


A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE ROLEX PEARLMASTER

The Rolex Pearlmaster was introduced in 1992 along with the Rolex Yachtmaster. Together, these two became more luxurious versions of Rolex staples – the Datejust and the Submariner.

Crafted exclusively from 18k gold or platinum, and always adorned with diamonds and gemstones, the Rolex Pearlmaster became the “jewelry watch” of the Rolex catalog.

The first of the Pearlmasters came in 29mm and 34mm sizes, slightly larger than the Lady Datejust at the time. Most models were in 18k yellow or white gold, with some rare platinum models. Diamond ornamentation was the most common design for earlier models, and more luxurious references have mother of pearl dials to match.

Those original models were powered by the in-house Caliber 2135, the workhorse movement that Rolex used for three-hand and men’s date watches since 1988.

By 1999, Rolex Pearlmaster movements were upgraded to the Caliber 2235, and models became extra luxurious. Whereas earlier models only featured diamond hour markers and bezels, this batch of models made way for double-diamond bezels, diamonds on the lugs, and even full pavé diamond dials.

In 2005, Rolex introduced their very own 18k rose gold alloy. Dubbed the Everose, it is manufactured in their in-house foundry, and has a small amount of platinum which makes the warm color and luster last longer.

In the next decade, Rolex would experiment with larger case sizes as a response to market preferences. The Rolex Pearlmaster was given increased size options – the 29mm version was discontinued, the 34mm version remained, and a new 39mm model was introduced.

Aside from the larger case size, the Pearlmaster 39 introduced vibrant hues to the collection. The trio of watches, made in either 18k yellow gold or white gold, came with a choice of either an olive green, red grape, or cognac sunburst dial. What’s more, they came with gradient trapezoidal sapphire bezels in hues that complement the watch face.

The Rolex Pearlmaster has been taken away from the Rolex website since 2022, and we can only speculate that it has been discontinued. It remains widely sought-after in the secondary market, especially among watch lovers who seek dazzling and capable accessories on the wrist.


ABOUT THE ROLEX PEARLMASTER COLLECTION

Having been introduced in 1992, the Rolex Pearlmaster is one of the newer lines in the Rolex catalog, along with the Rolex Yachtmaster launched in the same year.

It was initially introduced exclusively as a ladies watch, with 29 and 34mm sizes. Its second generation, introduced in 2015, made way for larger 39mm models that made it a unisex timepiece. Here are the defining characteristics of Rolex Pearlmaster models:

Rolex Pearlmaster – First Generation 29mm and 34mm

The first generation of Rolex Pearlmaster watches introduced in 1992 were sized at 29mm and 34mm. Early models were crafted in 18k yellow and white gold, and mostly used diamonds as ornaments on the dial and bezel. Models with mother of pearl dials were popular as well. They were powered by the Caliber 2135 until 1998.

By 1999, Rolex introduced its own replacement caliber, the 2235. With this change, the models also became more lavish. Rolex’s gemologists were given the free rein on the designs, and this gave birth to very extravagant embellishments such as diamonds on the lugs, double-diamond bezels, and full pavé diamond dials.

In 2005, Rolex began making their own proprietary 18k rose gold alloy named Everose, and introduced it to the Pearlmaster range.

Rolex Pearlmaster – Second Generation 34mm and 39mm

In 2015, Rolex discontinued the 29mm edition of the Pearlmaster to make way for larger case sizes. The 34mm size remained, while a 39mm version was introduced, making the Pearlmaster a unisex timepiece.

While the 34mm models kept the same design as the first generation Pearlmaster, the new Pearlmaster 39s really stood out from the Rolex portfolio. They had the same case shape as the Datejust, but with very striking colors. It came in three variations, plus a special pave diamond edition:


  • Ref 86348 SAJOR 42748 - 18k yellow gold case with blue-green gradient sapphire bezel and olive green sunburst dial
  • Ref 86348 SABLV 42748 - 18k yellow gold case with orange-yellow gradient sapphire bezel and cognac sunburst dial
  • Ref 86349 SAFUBL 42794 - 18k white gold case with blue-fuchsia gradient sapphire bezel and red grape sunburst dial
  • Ref 86348 SAJOR 44748 - 18k yellow gold case with orange-yellow gradient sapphire bezel and full pave diamond dial

This generation of Rolex Pearlmasters boast Rolex’s “Superlative Chronometer” certification, which has timekeeping variance of only -2/+2 seconds per day. Rolex Pearlmaster 34 is powered by Rolex’s Caliber 2235, while the Pearlmaster 39 runs on the Caliber 3235.


ROLEX PEARLMASTER REFERENCE NUMBERS

Rolex Pearlmaster models are available with these reference numbers:

REFERENCE NUMBER PRODUCTION DATE
802851992
692991993 - 1999
6309BR1995 - 1999
69309EM1995 - 1999
69309RU1995 - 1999
69309SACI1995 - 1999
69309SARO1995 - 1999
693191995 - 1999
693291995 - 1999
693691995 - 1999
802991999 - 2017
80309BR2002 - 2012
80309SACI1999 - 2012
80309SACO1999 - 2007
80309SALDV1999 - 2008
803191999 - 2007
803291999 - 2001
803392002 - 2012
803591999 - 2011
692981993 - 1999
69308BR1993 - 1999
69308EM1995 - 1999
69308RU1995 - 1999
69308SA1993 - 1999
69308SARO1993 - 1999
693181995 - 1999
693281995 - 1999
802981999 - 2017
80308BR1999 - 2012
80308EM1999 - 2012
80308RU1999 - 2012
80308SA1999 - 2012
80308SARO1999 - 2012
803181999 - 2017
803281999 - 2001
80315
81285
811592008 - 2019
812091999 - 2012
812992008 - 2019
813192008 - 2019
813392002 - 2016
81349SA2014 - 2015
81409RR2016 -
81582004 - 2019
812082004 - 2012
812982008 - 2018
81308BR2004 - 2012
813182008 - 2019
813382004 - 2016
81348SARO2014 - 2015
813582004 - 2012
813152011 - 2019
81405RBR2017 - 2019
86285
862802017 - 2019
86349SAFUBL2015 - 2022
86409RBR2015 - 2022
86348SABLV2015 - 2022
86348SAJOR2015 - 2022
86345SAJOR2017 - 2022
86405RBR2017 - 2022

COMMON QUESTIONS ABOUT THE ROLEX PEARLMASTER

The Rolex Pearlmaster combines the precision and reliability of Rolex watches with stunning and intricate design. Here are the most frequently asked questions about the Rolex Pearlmaster collection:

WHAT IS A ROLEX PEARLMASTER WATCH?

The Rolex Pearlmaster is a collection of ultra-luxe timepieces crafted in solid gold or platinum, and always embellished with diamonds, rubies, or sapphires.

The watch takes its name from its especially designed Pearlmaster bracelet, which comes with five highly-polished curved links.

Introduced in 1992, it was initially made exclusively for women, but was updated with larger case sizes in 2015.

Due to its precious metal construction and obligatory gemstone embellishments, Rolex Pearlmaster watches are some of the most expensive models in the Rolex catalog.

IS THE ROLEX PEARLMASTER WATERPROOF?

Rolex Pearlmaster watches are fitted with the iconic Oyster case, with scratch-resistant sapphire crystals and Twinlock winding crowns. This means it is hermetically sealed and water resistant to 100 meters.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD A ROLEX PEARLMASTER BE SERVICED?

Rolex generally recommends a complete service anywhere from 3-5 years.

It should be remembered that a watch’s water resistance and accuracy are not permanent and are subject to wear and tear. There are signs that your watch needs a service sooner rather than later. Read on for Signs It’s Time for Watch Maintenance.

IS THE ROLEX PEARLMASTER DISCONTINUED?

The Rolex Pearlmaster collection has disappeared from the Rolex website since 2022, so one can assume it is no longer being produced. Rolex Pearlmaster watches are still available in the pre-owned market, and we have a vast selection here at SwissWatchExpo.