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The Rolex Pearlmaster holds a special place in the Oyster collection as its crowning jewelry watch. Exclusively crafted from precious metals and always adorned with gemstones, the Pearlmaster sits at the crossroads of jewelry and horology.
Introduced in 1992, the Rolex Pearlmaster was positioned as the ultra-luxe take on the Datejust, Rolex’s universally adored timepiece. Aside from being cast exclusively in 18k gold or platinum, it is always decorated with diamonds, rubies, and sapphires. Moreover, a unique bracelet was especially designed for the Pearlmaster – one with five softly rounded links and enclosed with a concealed Crownlock clasp.
Rolex Pearlmaster watches are also far from simply being beautiful. Within each model are the same Rolex movements that have set industry standards in precision and timekeeping.
Representing some of the most expensive pieces in the Rolex catalog, the Pearlmaster is at the pinnacle of both the watchmaker and the gem-setter’s artistry. Explore our collection of Rolex Pearlmaster watches at SwissWatchExpo.com.
The Rolex Pearlmaster was introduced in 1992 along with the Rolex Yachtmaster. Together, these two became more luxurious versions of Rolex staples – the Datejust and the Submariner.
Crafted exclusively from 18k gold or platinum, and always adorned with diamonds and gemstones, the Rolex Pearlmaster became the “jewelry watch” of the Rolex catalog.
The first of the Pearlmasters came in 29mm and 34mm sizes, slightly larger than the Lady Datejust at the time. Most models were in 18k yellow or white gold, with some rare platinum models. Diamond ornamentation was the most common design for earlier models, and more luxurious references have mother of pearl dials to match.
Those original models were powered by the in-house Caliber 2135, the workhorse movement that Rolex used for three-hand and men’s date watches since 1988.
By 1999, Rolex Pearlmaster movements were upgraded to the Caliber 2235, and models became extra luxurious. Whereas earlier models only featured diamond hour markers and bezels, this batch of models made way for double-diamond bezels, diamonds on the lugs, and even full pavé diamond dials.
In 2005, Rolex introduced their very own 18k rose gold alloy. Dubbed the Everose, it is manufactured in their in-house foundry, and has a small amount of platinum which makes the warm color and luster last longer.
In the next decade, Rolex would experiment with larger case sizes as a response to market preferences. The Rolex Pearlmaster was given increased size options – the 29mm version was discontinued, the 34mm version remained, and a new 39mm model was introduced.
Aside from the larger case size, the Pearlmaster 39 introduced vibrant hues to the collection. The trio of watches, made in either 18k yellow gold or white gold, came with a choice of either an olive green, red grape, or cognac sunburst dial. What’s more, they came with gradient trapezoidal sapphire bezels in hues that complement the watch face.
The Rolex Pearlmaster has been taken away from the Rolex website since 2022, and we can only speculate that it has been discontinued. It remains widely sought-after in the secondary market, especially among watch lovers who seek dazzling and capable accessories on the wrist.
Having been introduced in 1992, the Rolex Pearlmaster is one of the newer lines in the Rolex catalog, along with the Rolex Yachtmaster launched in the same year.
It was initially introduced exclusively as a ladies watch, with 29 and 34mm sizes. Its second generation, introduced in 2015, made way for larger 39mm models that made it a unisex timepiece. Here are the defining characteristics of Rolex Pearlmaster models:
Rolex Pearlmaster – First Generation 29mm and 34mm
The first generation of Rolex Pearlmaster watches introduced in 1992 were sized at 29mm and 34mm. Early models were crafted in 18k yellow and white gold, and mostly used diamonds as ornaments on the dial and bezel. Models with mother of pearl dials were popular as well. They were powered by the Caliber 2135 until 1998.
By 1999, Rolex introduced its own replacement caliber, the 2235. With this change, the models also became more lavish. Rolex’s gemologists were given the free rein on the designs, and this gave birth to very extravagant embellishments such as diamonds on the lugs, double-diamond bezels, and full pavé diamond dials.
In 2005, Rolex began making their own proprietary 18k rose gold alloy named Everose, and introduced it to the Pearlmaster range.
Rolex Pearlmaster – Second Generation 34mm and 39mm
In 2015, Rolex discontinued the 29mm edition of the Pearlmaster to make way for larger case sizes. The 34mm size remained, while a 39mm version was introduced, making the Pearlmaster a unisex timepiece.
While the 34mm models kept the same design as the first generation Pearlmaster, the new Pearlmaster 39s really stood out from the Rolex portfolio. They had the same case shape as the Datejust, but with very striking colors. It came in three variations, plus a special pave diamond edition:
This generation of Rolex Pearlmasters boast Rolex’s “Superlative Chronometer” certification, which has timekeeping variance of only -2/+2 seconds per day. Rolex Pearlmaster 34 is powered by Rolex’s Caliber 2235, while the Pearlmaster 39 runs on the Caliber 3235.
Rolex Pearlmaster models are available with these reference numbers:
|REFERENCE NUMBER||PRODUCTION DATE|
|69299||1993 - 1999|
|6309BR||1995 - 1999|
|69309EM||1995 - 1999|
|69309RU||1995 - 1999|
|69309SACI||1995 - 1999|
|69309SARO||1995 - 1999|
|69319||1995 - 1999|
|69329||1995 - 1999|
|69369||1995 - 1999|
|80299||1999 - 2017|
|80309BR||2002 - 2012|
|80309SACI||1999 - 2012|
|80309SACO||1999 - 2007|
|80309SALDV||1999 - 2008|
|80319||1999 - 2007|
|80329||1999 - 2001|
|80339||2002 - 2012|
|80359||1999 - 2011|
|69298||1993 - 1999|
|69308BR||1993 - 1999|
|69308EM||1995 - 1999|
|69308RU||1995 - 1999|
|69308SA||1993 - 1999|
|69308SARO||1993 - 1999|
|69318||1995 - 1999|
|69328||1995 - 1999|
|80298||1999 - 2017|
|80308BR||1999 - 2012|
|80308EM||1999 - 2012|
|80308RU||1999 - 2012|
|80308SA||1999 - 2012|
|80308SARO||1999 - 2012|
|80318||1999 - 2017|
|80328||1999 - 2001|
|81159||2008 - 2019|
|81209||1999 - 2012|
|81299||2008 - 2019|
|81319||2008 - 2019|
|81339||2002 - 2016|
|81349SA||2014 - 2015|
|8158||2004 - 2019|
|81208||2004 - 2012|
|81298||2008 - 2018|
|81308BR||2004 - 2012|
|81318||2008 - 2019|
|81338||2004 - 2016|
|81348SARO||2014 - 2015|
|81358||2004 - 2012|
|81315||2011 - 2019|
|81405RBR||2017 - 2019|
|86280||2017 - 2019|
|86349SAFUBL||2015 - 2022|
|86409RBR||2015 - 2022|
|86348SABLV||2015 - 2022|
|86348SAJOR||2015 - 2022|
|86345SAJOR||2017 - 2022|
|86405RBR||2017 - 2022|
The Rolex Pearlmaster combines the precision and reliability of Rolex watches with stunning and intricate design. Here are the most frequently asked questions about the Rolex Pearlmaster collection:
The Rolex Pearlmaster is a collection of ultra-luxe timepieces crafted in solid gold or platinum, and always embellished with diamonds, rubies, or sapphires.
The watch takes its name from its especially designed Pearlmaster bracelet, which comes with five highly-polished curved links.
Introduced in 1992, it was initially made exclusively for women, but was updated with larger case sizes in 2015.
Due to its precious metal construction and obligatory gemstone embellishments, Rolex Pearlmaster watches are some of the most expensive models in the Rolex catalog.
Rolex Pearlmaster watches are fitted with the iconic Oyster case, with scratch-resistant sapphire crystals and Twinlock winding crowns. This means it is hermetically sealed and water resistant to 100 meters.
Rolex generally recommends a complete service anywhere from 3-5 years.
It should be remembered that a watch’s water resistance and accuracy are not permanent and are subject to wear and tear. There are signs that your watch needs a service sooner rather than later. Read on for Signs It’s Time for Watch Maintenance.
The Rolex Pearlmaster collection has disappeared from the Rolex website since 2022, so one can assume it is no longer being produced. Rolex Pearlmaster watches are still available in the pre-owned market, and we have a vast selection here at SwissWatchExpo.